Mar's Magnificent Minnesota Midgauge Felted Mitts

Mar’s Magnificent Midgauge Felted Mittens   ©2015 rev.
I've edited the tops of the mittens to make them easier to knit and added a small size

Machine:  LK150, SR 860, Kx 350--no ribber required

Yarn:  Mary Lou’s Schuss Plus or any 100% wool that knits to the same gauge (If you use a different yarn and gauge I can’t guarantee they’ll come out to the same size as mine did). And felting adds another variable.  Schuss Plus is about the size of hand knitting sport weight yarn or light worsted.

Gauge:  At T10.. (loosest possible) 4.5 st and 6 r = 1” before felting

Other materials needed:  Size F crochet hook (or use the one that came with your machine), large eyed needle for seaming

Finished sizes:  Child 3-4, (Average women’s hand or older child, large) in parenthesis.  You should always felt both mitts at the same time to get the same result for both mitts.  You may need to knit a pair and see if you achieved the size you wanted, then do some adjustments for the next pair.

 

 

 

Directions:  (Both mittens are knit in the same way)

         BODY

1.  Ewrap cast on over 18-0-18 (21-0-21, 24-0-24) needles.  T10..  RC000.  Knit to RC 14 (18, 22) and put a yarn marker on both sides.  Knit to RC 30 (34,38) and put a yarn marker on both sides.  (This is the thumb placement.)
2. Knit to RC 50 (56, 62). If you think you need a longer mitt, adjust rows here. CAR.  Set machine to hold.  Put left 18 ( 21 , 24) stitches in hold position. 
3. On the half that is in work--*Decrease one stitch both sides, knit one row.*  Repeat  until you have 4 ( 5, 6) stitches left in work.  Bind these stitches off loosely. Note, it is not necessary to do a full fashioned decrease, because once felted, the stitches disappear.
4. Take machine off hold.  On the other half of the mitt, repeat #3.  Remove from machine.
   
    
   THUMB

1.  Locate the bottom yarn markers both sides.  With purl side facing you on the inside  and the cuff down, pointy tops up, hang this stitch so that the stitch from both sides is on needle #1.  You have the beginnings of a tube.  You can tell if you've hung it correctly when purl stitches are toward you on the inside of the tube and purls are what are about to be knit.  Confession;  i knit two thumbs upside down until I got a grip on myself...SO double check.  Twice!!!  Air was as blue as the mitt.
2. With your 3 prong tool, splay the sides of the mitt out, pick up 8 ( 9 , 10)  more whole stitches to the right, up to the top yarn marker and do the same for the left side, the same number of stitches.  You now have 17 (19, 21) stitches in work.  You will want to skip a few stitches as you hang because you are matching up rows to stitches.
3. Set the machine to hold.  All needles except the center doubled one are in hold.  Hang a claw weight under the doubled stitch.  Knit one row.  Push a needle opposite the carriage in the middle, next to the stitch that just knit, into working position. Knit one row.  Continue putting needles opposite the carriage into work one at a time until all needles are working.  (No need to wrap, but work slowly and check each row to make sure the new needle did knit.  If not, knit the stitch through by hand.)
4. Knit 6 (8) rows even on all 17 (19, 21) stitches. Adjust rows here if you think you need a longer or shorter thumb.
5. Decrease for thumb tip:  Transfer every other stitch to its neighbor and move all the stitches in so there are no empties.  Knit one row.  Repeat once more.  Take the remaining stitches off on a large eyed needle and cinch up.  Don’t seam yet.

         JOIN THE TWO HALVES AT THE TOP OF MITT

1.  With right side facing you, hang the top stitches you bound off of one side and then picking up whole stitches, pick up stitches down the curve.  Pick up the same number on the other side.  Hang a claw wt. (if you can’t get all the stitches on, do half and then the remaining half.) Push stitches to the back of the bed, needles all the way out with latches open.  Write down the number of stitches you  have hung so that you do the second mitt exactly the same.
2. Fold over so the purl side of the other half is facing you (purl side visible) and hang the same stitches as you did on the other side but into the hooks of the needles.  Hang another claw wt so the stitches don’t jump off. The right sides of the mitt are facing each other.
3.  Close latches.  With a straight edge that is at least as wide as the stitches you are working with, push the front stitches through the back in one fell swoop.  Don’t be timid.
4. Pull needles all the way out and stitches back to make it easier to bind off.  Bind off loosely with your favorite technique. (It won’t show.)
    
   FINISHING

1.  Seam all open seams from the right side by whip stitching just half of each stitch loosely.  The seam won’t show after felting, but picking up just half a stitch each side reduces bulk.  You could also mattress stitch from the right side taking just half a stitch.
2. Secure yarn ends and cut about 2 inches. (Can trim after the felting process.)
3. Crochet cuff edge:

1.  Single crochet into each stitch around
2. Secure to beginning stitch and chain one.
3. Single crochet in each of 3 stitches, then  4 chains.  Secure bottom of chain into same stitch.  Repeat around. (Picots made)
4. Secure to beginning stitch then single crochet in each stitch but do 2 sc into the picot point.
5. Pull points out hard.  A lot of the nice stitches will get obliterated, however, after felting.

1.  Put through as many hot/cold washes with a little bit of detergent as needed and a pair of jeans or material that won’t give off lint.  Keep an eye out so that they don’t get too small.  I checked mine half way through a hot wash and to my surprise they were done!  You can shape them a little and pull out the picots while they are drying flat.
   Scan of knitting before felting….
    
   NOTE:  If you don’t want to do the crochet edge, knit extra rows for the cuff.  Once you do that, you can turn the row counter back and follow the pattern.  When felted, the edge won’t roll.  Nice! Just make sure you do the exact same thing for mitten #2.
    
   NOTE #2:  I have been searching for a long time for the “perfect” felted mitten.  Tried lots, was disappointed lots.  Finally, I believe I have crafted up the perfect felted mitten.  In Minnesota, acrylic mittens don’t always fill the bill.  Even doubled.  Our winters are just too cold.
   The felted ones will keep you toasty, however.  You can do all sorts of things with these mitts as far as decorating if you are moved to do so.  Embroidery, ribbons, fairisle, more crochet, lace cuff, a cloth lining, etc.  I have to say, they are actually fast and fun to do.
    
    

Silly Machine Knit Project

Needing a mindless kind of project, I decided to knit a pencil bag for my grandson.  He's starting to draw a little so I bought regular pencils and colored pencils for him.  Now he has a place to store them.

On the standard machine, I used Mary Lou's Symphony yarn at tension 8.  Mine is 60 stitches wide by 61 rows tall.  The dimensions are approximately 9" wide by 4" tall.  The words are placed about in the center or maybe a little lower to allow for the zip at the top:

I knit the back first (61 rows) then the front.  I started with a crochet cast on and ended with a bind off around the gate pegs so the edges would be firm.  I used some polka dotted cotton and seamed it, seamed the knit part, then inserted the lining into the bag, sewed in the zipper.  The zipper pull has a little ribbon piece to more easily grab onto.

I have the Designaknit file if anyone wants it.  Just email me and I'll send it to you.  Any machine could be used.  If you don't have DAK, you could hand pull the contrasting color.

Machine Knit Baby Rib Warmer

It's been a while.  I actually did get my machine knitting mojo back and have been doing a ton of charity knitting, but not blogging.    I've been making baby rib warmers.  They are cute cute cute and really easy.  I'm sharing the pattern here and you can use a midgauge, bulky or standard gauge machine to knit these.  Mine will be going to a church in Arkansas that distributes things to needy people.  Hopefully you'll make some for charity too, but I don't mind if you knit for a gift for a special baby.

Baby Rib Warmer ©2015

by Mar Heck  

NOTES:  Directions are given for Midgauge or Bulky with Standard gauge machine in parenthesis.  There is no shaping required because the ribbing pulls in the knitting to make the yoke shape and armholes. So if you have a ribber, this is a fairly fast knit. If you need to hand manipulate the ribbing, it will take a little longer.  Because I have a ribber for my Silver Reed 860 midgauge, I used a 2 x 2 rib in the yellow pictured example.  I used a Brother 970 with ribber for the standard gauge blue example pictured.  If you need to hand latch the ribbing, it would save a little time if you did a 2 x 1 rib.  Check your manual or You Tube for how to latch ribbings. Note that the rib tension is the same as the stockinette.  I think the pattern would be suitable for a boy or girl baby.  I didn’t attempt to do the sweater in mock rib, but that might be worth a try too if you don’t possess a ribber.

Yarn-  whatever yarn gets the same gauge as listed or your garment may come out a completely different shape,  For the sample I used Lion Brand Pound of Love pale yellow, just a few ounces.  On the standard gauge machine, I used Mary Lou’s Symphony, also a small amount.

Machine – midgauge or bulky with standard in parenthesis, ribber if you have one

Gauge- on mid or bulky 4 stitches and 6 rows to one inch; for standard 7 stitches and 10 rows to one inch.  Tension dial will depend on the yarn you use to get this gauge.  Knit a swatch to determine that.  For both samples I used tension 7, but your machine may be different.

Finished Size – about 10 inches wide and 10 inches tall for a 6 to 12 month baby.  For other sizes add or subtract an inch each direction.

Directions

BACK

Cast on 40 (70) stitches in your favorite method for ribbing doing 2 x 2 rib at  (T7/7). Use the same tension as you will use on the stockinette part.  If you have a smaller rib cast on comb, use that so that it doesn’t pull down so hard. Because there are fewer stitches than on an adult garment, you won’t need so much weight but still some so that the stitches knit off.

 RC 000  Knit 6 (10) rows rib.  Transfer rib stitches to main bed and change to regular carriage for stockinette.  Knit stockinette stitch to RC 38 (66).  Change to rib carriage and transfer every other 2 st to ribber for ribbing,.  Knit to row 60 (100), transfer rib stitches to main bed and bind off (not too tight).

LEFT FRONT

Cast on 20 (36) stitches in your favorite method for ribbing doing 2 x 2 rib at (T7/7). RC000  Knit 6 (10) rows rib.  Transfer rib stitches to main bed and change to regular carriage for stockinette.  Knit stockinette stitch to RC 38 (66).  Change to rib carriage and transfer every other two stitches to ribber for ribbing,.  Knit to RC 47 (79).  For neck, bind off 10 (16) stitches.  On remaining 10 (20) stitches knit to RC 60 (100).  Transfer rib stitches to main bed. Bind off these 10 (20) shoulder stitches.

RIGHT FRONT

Same as left front except knit to RC 48 (80) to bind off neck stitches so that the carriage is on the correct side for binding off.

FRONT EDGING

I used what I call the “2 Row Wonder” for the front edges.  It is nice for baby cardi’s because it’s dainty and helps the edge lie flat.  It’s easy to incorporate buttonholes by skipping stitches from the garment as you are hanging garment stitches. 

Hold the edge up to the machine without stretching to get an estimate of how many stitches you’ll need.  With the wrong side of the edge facing you, pick up whole stitches from the garment and hang on the needles.  You may need to skip a garment stitch now and then because you are matching stitches to rows.  Also, for girls, put a button hole (or evenly spaced button holes) on the garment’s right front and on the left for a boy.

 After you knit one front’s edge, write down the number of stitches you picked up so that the other side turns out the same.  Also, try to get to the very edge of the ribbings on both sides so that the edge extends all the way. 

Push the needles all the way out on the first row to aid the carriage in knitting.  After the first row, when a loop is formed for the buttonhole, hang it on the needle above.   Knit two rows total at garment tension.  Carriage is on the right.  Bind off around the gate pegs.  If your machine doesn’t have gate pegs, pull a needle out to act as a gate peg to even out the stitches and make the rope-like stitch.  The yarn goes to the right of this needle.

FINISHING 

Stitch shoulder seams.  Mattress stitch side seams up to the point where the yoke ribbing starts.  Hide yarn ends and sew on a button (buttons) securely.  If the fronts need a little steam to lie flat, be sure to not touch the yarn if you are using an iron.

If you can’t achieve my gauge, use this schematic and some math to achieve the same size as I did.

  Interesting note…now that I have taken pictures, I see that my midgauge machine knits at a different tension every other row!!! Not too happy about this, but I don’t know if there is anything to be done about it.  It’s too consistent to be my fault, right? Reminds me of hand knitting where the knitter uses a different tension on purl vs knit rows.  Actually, in person it doesn’t look so noticeable.  Cameras can be mean sometimes.  Truth hurts.  OH WELL…

Back view

I hope you enjoy the pattern.  Would
love to see a picture if you do knit it.

Debbie Bliss Teddy Bear

 

About once or twice a year I get the urge to hand knit an entire piece.  I've admired Debbie Bliss's teddy because I thought the pieces were nicely shaped.  Wouldn't want to do it by machine since it's garter stitch so I "cheated" and knit it by hand.  ;=)

I combined 4 strands of thin-ish coned yarn, two of which are fuzzy.  They didn't rise to the occasion, so to speak and he doesn't look that fuzzy.  The resulting color is ok for a bear, though.  I checked out other examples of her bear on Ravelry and several said it was a "fast knit".  O MY!  I'm not a fast hand knitter, but I'm not that slow either.  Took me two weeks of nightly knitting to get him done.  Machine knitters and hand knitters have different definitions of the word "fast".  

I was faithful to the instructions except I omitted the muzzle and added a belly button.  Embroidering the face kind of gave it some shape.  Here are some more pictures of this cutie;

I think, but am not sure, that Debbie uses a machine for lots of her patterns.  Clues to me are that many things are knit flat rather than on circ needles, she gives row counts along with inches or cm's and the gauges seem to work on our machines.  Could be totally wrong, though.  I might do this  bear on the midgauge machine with stockinette and see if he turns out as nicely.  Some pieces might need to be knit upside down since changing the number of stitches so quickly is better done by decreases rather than increases.  A fairisle bear might be cute.  Her pattern is free, by the way.  There's a link on Ravelry.

Now, what should I name him???  I'm sending him to California along with some other little things for an Easter present.  Suggestions are welcome...

Machine Knit George, Peppa Pig's Brother

 A while back, I blogged about taking a coloring page of Peppa Pig and converting it to a stitch pattern in DesignaKnit. http://marzipanknits.blogspot.com/2014/10/using-dak-placing-single-motif-on-front.html        But, I don't think I showed you the end result.  First I did a pillow:

 Well, actually it's George, Peppa's brother.  I added some fairisle designs to his cheek, jacket and hat to help with floats a little. I also wrapped the edges with strands of the main color to keep it from separating.    I used new cotton dishtowels for the lining.  I find that making the lining after knitting the outside of the pillow makes for a perfect fit. I just placed the knit piece on top of the dishtowel and cut allowing for 1/2" seam.   It's stuffed with polyester material that you get at any fabric store. The lining was sewn on the sewing machine; the outside seamed by hand.

Encouraged by the results, I did a sweater, also for my grandson.

The long floats on the pillow didn't matter, but for the sweater they were bothersome.  So I bought some iron-on nylon stabilizer and affixed it to the back before sewing the sweater together.  The advantage of this nylon stuff is that it stretches with the knit a little  but keeps the floats in place.

You can kind of see on the left side where the interfacing was cut.  It's just a little larger than the fairisle pattern. You can also see where I hung a few of the floats, but it  got tiresome really fast, so I quit and opted for the interfacing.   Yes, dbj would be another way to go, but alas I'm still not doing it.

Closeup of the design.  Cute, eh?  I love how George's nose goes off to the side, kind of like a child's drawing.

And finally, proof that it fits.  Hard to get a picture of a constantly moving target!

If I were to make this again, I'd do a modified drop shoulder.  The regular drop shoulder is too bulky for a little kid.  I knew better, but sometimes the brain isn't engaged.

What a difference a day makes!

Got the snow.  Luca is overjoyed!

The hat and mittens worked well.

It fits!

The pirate sweater fits.  It's always a big guess but I hit the mark this time.  We live kind of on the edge of the woods and you can see that we have no snow.  Very unusual for Minnesota this time of year.  Many are disappointed.  But to the California people, it's not such a big discrepancy from what they are used to.  Having a wonderful Christmas with the family.  Hope you are too!