Fuzzy Feet Revisited

Wanted to make a specific size with different wool than I had used in the past on my LK 150 midgauge.  This exercise just reinforced the fact that felting/fulling is really unpredictable.  These are intended for my 8 year old grandson as a stocking stuffer.  Guessing the stitches and rows,  I did 50 stitches x 60 rows, every other needle. (I am counting the actual stitches, not total needles on the machine.)  On my bulky machine I could use every needle.  No go on the midgauge.  Since the midgauge didn't especially like this yarn or the fact that there were two strands (one wool and one fun fur) I kept the fun fur on the floor and hand fed it with the yarn in the mast, both going into the carriage together.  So far so good.  These take very little time to knit.  After aggressive felting in the washing machine, they turned out to be my size. Pretty large.

Back to the drawing board.  This time I used 25 stitches and 40 rows.  Wild guess.  8 rows each color: red, yellow, purple, green, royal blue.  Same method.  Yea! they turned out the right size for an 8 year old, about 9" long.  I bought some googly eyes and sewed them on, also adding a dot of permanent fabric glue to hold the eyes in place.  Don't know if the eyes themselves will withstand washing, but won't be a tragedy if they don't.  Non- threatening monster slippers!  The slippers are really soft and so cute!

Posting this so that you know--- if you make them--- the process might take a few tries.  Unfortunately once they are felted, you can't undo them.  But if they turn out a size you didn't intend, they should fit someone! Check out my previous post for more specific directions.

Another Stocking Stuffer : Quick Cowl

Cablely Cowl    by Mar Heck  ©2019

This is a really easy cowl/neck warmer that you can knit up in really short order.  Makes a nice gift and you can make several for yourself too!  I knit it on a midgauge machine, but you could make it on other machines adjusting the gauge so that you end up with a cowl that is 6”+ x 24”+. Use any yarn that works with your machine.  Variegated is nice.  The cables make automatic buttonholes!   Directions are given for the midgauge or bulky.  To knit on other gauge machines, get your gauge, then take a tape measure or piece of yarn and wind around your neck to see what length you want.

Machine:  Midgauge – I used Brother KX 350

Yarn:  Lion Brand Wool, worsted weight, run together with mill end variegated thread (poly and cotton slubs) – optional, or use any worsted weight yarn.

Other:  2 one inch buttons

Gauge:  4 st x 5 rows = 1”  (not too critical because you can block and also adjust the button placement)

Suggested Finished sizes:  After blocking, 6” height x 22” length, 8” x 24”,  8” x 28”

Directions:  Cast on with waste yarn over needles R 1-25 and knit a few rows T 10. 5

 E wrap loosely over all needles with main yarn. Knit one row.  Transfer stitches as in diagram.

In other words, put needles 3, 8, 13, 18, 23 out of work when you cast on over right 1-25.  If you are making a wider scarf, continue in the same pattern leaving two plain stitches at the sides.

Knit 10 rows.  (I did 10 rows because it is faster and also easier to keep track of on the row counter.)  Cable:  With two 2-prong tools, *make a 2 x 2 cable on stitches 4,5,6,7—9,10,11,12—14,15,16,17—19,20,21,22 (counting the needles out of work),   Knit 10 rows.* Repeat from * to * 8 or more times, knit 10 rows plain, one loose row and chain cast off pulling next stitch through the previous stitch with your latch hook.  OR, use the bind off of your choice.  Remove waste yarn.   Note that the sides of the cables form holes that are decorative and also act as automatic buttonholes. And, with serious blocking, you can make scallops.

Finishing:  Block the rectangle aggressively, pinning out the space between cables on both edges to make curvy lines.  Steam press hard if using wool, steam above the fabric if using acrylic, and leave pinned until it dries.  Remove waste yarn and sew in/hide yarn ends.  Sew on buttons two inches in from the end. (Or, adjust size for recipient.)  OPTIONAL- Bend over top corner and tack down invisibly with sewing thread.  I left the bottom more open rather than sewing on another button to better conform to a person’s neck, but you can add a 3^rd button.  The red cowl pictured is more fitted to the neck.  You may want a looser one.