New Year New Dog New Sweater

 

This is Yogi.  He is a BichonFrise/poodle mix.  He is not green or blue around the eyes, but my camera thinks he is.  Weird.  He just got a haircut so is cold without his shaggy long coat.  I'm trying to perfect the right size for the sweater.  One I made last summer was too big, so I'm trying again.  This one is snug but he doesn't seem to mind. Am going to adjust and try again.  After all, a guy can't have too many sweaters.  Seems kind of sissy, but he honestly needs a little help.  My husband would have said, "That's not a real dog!" However, he is here to stay, we just got dumped upon with 15 inches of snow...and he can barely navigate through it.

If you also have about a 15 lb doggie who could use a sweater, here's how I made this one.  This is the DAK design for the sweater back. You certainly could knit it plain, do stripes, design your own instead.

My tension with some sport weight Tamm yarns was 7 stitches and 8  rows to one inch @T10 on my 970 standard Brother machine. I centered the DAK .stp design on the needle bed and only used 84 stitches and 96 rows of it.  If you need more stitches and rows, they are there for you.  If you would like the DAK design, write to me and I will email it to you.

Below are schematics, very not to scale.

DAK notation--at row#, decrease or increase #stitches every so many rows, #times.

Example--at row 5, decrease 1 stitch (both sides) every 5 rows twice (on row5 and 10)

HEMS-bottoms of pieces, use waste yarn and knit some rows. 1 r ravel cord.  Insert main yarn, at tension 6 knit 12 rows, at tension 10 knit one row, at tension 8 knit 12 rows.  Pick up stitches across above waste and hang onto row in work. Use design until top hem. I didn't put a design on the underbelly piece.

For hems on tops of pieces use ravel cord to mark the row you want to hang up. Reverse the tensions.  First T8, 1 r T10, last T6.  Hang stiches and bind off with your favorite method.

My fractions of an inch are not exact, but it shouldn't matter. One hint to make the thing fit better in the armholes is to poof out the back area a little more than the underbellypiece. Otherwise I think it's pretty straight-forward as to how to sew the pieces together.

  As I was knitting this, I had all sorts of problems that I usually do not have. There were dropped stitches and mispatterning.  My aged mind finally figured out that I needed a new sponge bar.  I had a spare that I inserted but it too was not in perfect shape. Since it was a tad better I was able to finish the thing but there were still some pattern errors.  (don't look too closely.) Right away I ordered a new one from Cindy's Knitting Room in Princeton, MN.  I wanted to mention her business because she is so nice, prompt, fair and reasonably priced.  

Write to me if I haven't explained very well.

Patchwork Satchel ©marheck2022

 On a roll now.  A felting project for you.

This purse/tote/satchel is easy to make and is sturdy.  It can be knit on any gauge machine, but a midgauge or bulky machine is preferable; a midgauge was used for the sample.

In selecting yarns, be sure the yarns are 100% wool, not superwash or treated to be washable and dryable.  It’s best to use the same brand for all of the colors.  Even so, the colors will likely felt at
different rates.

I chose saturated colors that are considered to be “jewel tones”.  You may prefer earth tones or pastels.  It’s a good idea to put the colors together and study them a bit, perhaps removing some and adding others as you study the composition.  You could also knit with just two colors for a checkerboard effect.

The purse is constructed so that you attach pieces as you knit.  This eliminates seams. 

This is a good project to use up small amounts of yarn in your stash.

The knitting level is approximately at an advanced beginner level.  Some sewing skills are required.

I lined the bag for extra body, but this is optional.

MACHINE   Pattern is written for the midgauge but a bulky machine would work as well since the science of felting is not so exact anyway .

YARN  I used Paton’s Merino wool-  a medium worsted weight.  I used small amounts of 16 different colors, 2 skeins of the colors used for the hems and straps.  You could successfully use less colors and place them randomly.  If you are using up yarn from your stash, improvise as far as how much of any one color to use.   You can also use a thinner yarn and double it to approximate the medium worsted weight, but do this throughout, not for just selected patches.

GAUGE  Before felting, 4 stitches and 5 rows = 1 inch. 

FINISHED SIZE   14” high by 20 inches wide;  depending on how your yarn felts, it may vary some from this size.

OTHER MATERIALS  five ¾ inch beads for decoration and closure, ¾ yard coordinating lining material, small amount of interfacing for inner pocket, matching sewing thread, large- eyed sewing needle and sewing machine.

KNITTING NOTES

·        As stated above, this pattern provides directions for a midgauge machine.  You can modify for the machine you are using.  That is, if using a bulky, you could multiply stitches and rows by 80% or so, or knit it the same as the directions for a slightly larger bag. If using a standard gauge machine, I would multiply the stitches and rows x 140%.  Always use the highest tension (loosest) for best felting, regardless of which machine you are using.

·        It’s a good idea to do a tension swatch to see what you need to do for each patch. You may want to adjust the size of the squares.  I was aiming for square patches, but mine came out a little on the rectangular side.  Even though I did do a swatch, the knitting tends to shrink more in length than it does in width.   If you’re ok with this, follow the directions as written.  If you want squares, add a few rows to each patch to compensate for the extra shrinkage in length.

·       Examine the edge of the knitting.  You want to be able to identify the loops.  The knitting will have a loop and on top of that a knot.  You will hang the loops to attach one strip or piece to the next.

·       It’s not a bad idea to draw yourself a chart on paper and decide color placement ahead of time.

 

DIRECTIONS

Straps       Knit 2 the same

T 10.(loosest throughout) Ewrap 18 needles, knit 120 rows.  Bind off loosely.  (This size makes a comfortable shoulder strap.)  Fold in half and stitch shut with a mattress stitch.  Two layers makes it stronger.

 

Patchwork strips to make the rectangular sides  - Make two sides 

Strip one:  Cast on with waste yarn over 20 stitches, T 10. and knit a few rows.  RC 000. With main yarn, E wrap on and knit to RC 24.  Drop color one and knit 24 rows of color two.  Drop color two and knit 24 rows of color three.  Drop color three and knit 24 rows of color four.  (RC 96)  Take strip off on a few rows of waste yarn.  Tie yarn ends together so they don’t unravel.

 

Strip two:  Cast on with waste yarn over 20 stitches, T 10. and knit a few rows.  RC 000.  Ewrap on with main yarn.  With the wrong side of strip #one facing you, hang the first loop on the left needle.   With new color main yarn, knit 2 rows.  Pick up the next loop from the completed strip, hang it on the left most needle, knit 2 rows.  When you have reached 24 rows of the new patch, change colors and proceed in the same manner until you reach the top and have added 4 patches.  (RC 96)  Take off on a few rows of waste yarn. Try to make the colors come out so that they line up across from each other.  Fudge if you have to, but if you are picking up loops, not knots, it should come out right.

Strips three and four:  Knit in the same manner as you did strip two.

Tie yarn ends together so they don’t unravel.

Make the second rectangle the same as the first. Hide yarn ends.  Remove waste yarn from the bottom of the bag.

 

SIDE GUSSETS

These are knit while hanging the bottoms and sides at the same time.  (See drawing below.)

 

Cast on with waste yarn over 24 stitches, knit a few rows T 10.  Change to main yarn, knit one row.  ( I knit the bottom of the gusset in one color and the sides of the gussets in a second color, but you can use just one color.)

With the wrong side of rectangle #one facing you, find the exact center of the bottom and hang that stitch on the leftmost needle.  With the wrong side of rectangle #two facing you, find the exact center of the bottom and hang that stitch on the rightmost needle.  Knit two rows.  When you get to the corner, knit 3 rows before hanging rectangle stitches.  (This helps the gusset go more smoothly around the corner.)  Check frequently that you are in the same place on both sides.  If you get off track, it’s best to redo or the bag will bias.  When you have knit the gusset and joined all the way to the top, take off on waste yarn.  Turn the piece around, pick up the bottom stitches from the waste yarn and knit in the other direction.  Difficult to explain, but it’s not hard to do.  When done knitting the second gusset, remove waste yarn.

TOP HEM

You should have 100 stitches on each side of the bag --- 80 from the rectangle, 10 for half of the gusset on both sides.  Hang  one half of the bag stitches, wrong side facing you, decreasing evenly across to 80 stitches.  With main yarn, knit 13 rows.  Pick up and hang first row to make hem.  Knit one row by hand left to right and bind off loosely. Repeat for the other side of the bag.

 

I CORDS

 

Side ties:  Set machine to slip one way, knit the other to make I cords.  Knit a 4 stitch I cord, changing colors as desired to RC 220. Bind off by placing the outer stitches on the center stitch and binding off the two remaining stitches. Make two the same.

Front closure:  Knit one four stitch I cord 80 rows long.  Bind off  as above.

Short I cord decorations:  With the wrong side of one side facing you, fold down the hem toward you.  Pick up 3 stitches from the right side, 2 ½ inches from the edge and immediately under the hem.  Set machine to slip one way, knit the other to make 3 stitch I cords.  Knit 40 rows.  Bind off as above to one stitch.  Repeat across the bag, staggering the I cords every 4 stitches or so and changing colors and lengths at random.  My I cords were 20, 30, 40 and 50 rows long using all the colors in the bag, one to each I cord.  Leave a 2 ½ inch space when you reach the end.  With a large-eyed embroidery needle, hide yarn ends by sewing up into the tube and snipping.

Repeat on the other side of the bag.

FINISHING

Sew the two sides together at the top hem with a mattress stitch, both sides.  Felt the purse, I cord side ties, front closure I cord and straps at the same time in the washing machine.  Hot/cold cycle with a small amount of detergent and a few other smooth pieces of clothing.  (No towels.)  Stick around to watch the progress.  Repeat cycle if necessary.  When felted to your satisfaction, stuff the satchel with scrunched up plastic bags and lay flat to dry.

 

Pinch the sides together at the top and with a large knitting needle (at least size 10) poke a hole through all 4 layers.  Thread the I cord side ties through these holes and tie a knot close to the purse.  This cinches in the purse at the top.  String a bead onto the end of each side I cord and tie a knot to hold in place.  Repeat for other side. If you don't cinch in the sides, the top is too wide open. 

With a sewing machine, sew straps to purse about 3 inches in from each side.   Sew a few times for strength. Fold the front closure I cord in half and sew the two ends to the top middle of one side, on the inside.  Sew a bead onto the purse, measuring  where it should be. 

Slip over the bead for measurement and sew together just above the bead with sewing thread so that the top stays closed.

LINING

Lay the bag on a piece of paper for a pattern and trace around it leaving room for 5/8” seams on all sides and a 2” hem on the top.  Cut out two layers of your lining with this pattern.

For pockets, cut two rectangles about 10” wide x 8” long out of the lining material and same out of interfacing.  With right sides of the lining material together and the interfacing on top, sew around 3 sides.  Turn right side out.  Stitch down the pocket to one side of the lining about two inches down from the top and  in the middle.  Sew vertical lines to divide the pocket for pens, cell phones, etc.  Embroider initials on the other side of the lining.  With right sides together, sew around the lining, leaving the top open.  Push into the felted bag, tacking the bottom of the bag to the bottom of the lining in a few places on the inside.  Fold under the top hem to cover up the machine stitching.  Hand sew with tiny stitches and doubled thread. 

I hope you enjoy this project. It certainly will be unique to you.

Machine Knit Cotton Hot Pads

 

I am on a mission to use up some of my huge cotton stash.  Have knit a lot of dishcloths, but thought it would be fun to be a little more creative---and make something useful.  I now have a cache of little gifts on hand.

Here’s how I have done them:

 *Used all cotton yarn and my standard gauge Brother 970 machine.  My designs are approx. a gauge of 7 st and 10 r to the inch, but it doesn’t matter. Mine end up to be between 7 and 9 inches wide by approximately the same height. You could use wool---haven’t tried because I am trying to use up the cotton.  You could also do these with a punch card machine or knit them plain.  But , where’s the fun in plain???

*Start with several rows of waste yarn with a quick cast on.  Engage the design with your electronics, then just knit not doing a permanent cast on with main yarn.  I tried to be sure to do the design so that the carriage ends at the right side when adding contrast yarn. The designs are knit in one longish rectangle.  Might want to switch between KC I and KC II for some rows so you don’t have a contrast yarn going all the way across the knitting for no good reason.  When the design is done, the bottom row is seamed to the top row.

* Some of your designs may have long floats.  Not to worry.  They add to the insulation factor.  I had no trouble with the stitches not conforming to one another or splitting between stitches, but if you do have this issue you can latch up the long float to a matching color. No one sees the inside.

* You may wonder why you need more rows in the middle of a design when both bottom and top halves are the same.  I found out the hard way that you need about 4 rows to go around the “bend” when you seam bottom to top or it’s off.  If you only want to do the bottom half of the design, that’s fine.  Just remember to do the same rows as the design and add 4 extra rows.  Example—the design is 86 rows.  Knit the 86, do 4 rows plain, knit 86 rows plain.

*Adding a loop in the corner is optional.  I did about 6 stitches x 50-60 rows, plain knitting since it curls like I cord anyway.  Looks nice if you hang the front corner with wrong side facing, knit the loop, then pick up stitches from the back side, knit a row and bind off.  When you seam the sides you can hide the purl bumps.

* To seam bottom to top, you have two options:

              -The Perfectionist option is to take the piece off on waste yarn when the design is complete, turn it so the right side is facing you, hang bottom to top stitches.  Then bind off. The seam will be on the inside and not show.

              -The quicker, easier way is to hang the beginning stitches onto the top stitches when the piece is complete, then bind off around the gate pegs.  You will have a seam on the right side.  I think it looks ok. On one I ran out of main yarn right when I needed ONE MORE ROW!  So I used the contrast yarn to bind off.  So one row was main and one contrast.  I actually liked it--- it created a decorative stitch.

* Options for insulation for the middle of the hot pad--- I have used layers of insulbright, >1 layer of flannel cotton fabric (laundered first),  knitted squares of cotton yarn I didn’t like, old cotton cut to size swatches, machine sewed around edges so they wouldn’t unravel, cotton quilting batting, old clean towels.  After completing the knitting, I turned it wrong side out, then tacked the lining to the outer in several places, so it wouldn’t shift.  I used regular matching cotton sewing thread. Doesn’t show if you take tiny stitches.  When you are sure the lining won’t shift, turn right side out.

 * Finally, remove waste yarn and mattress stitch the side seams by hand with right side showing.

 

I used patterns that I have had in DAK for ages, some are built-in patterns, some are purchased—lots of Dale of Norway patterns.

Some examples-----------Have knitted abt 15 so far.  Addictive. Can you tell I love Norwegian designs??? 

 

I plan to tell a recipient to hand wash cold, dry flat.  I don't want them (the hotpads) to shrink and pucker up. 😊

My absolute favorite is the rosemaling design.  It was a free chart on the Dale of Norway site.  I converted the chart to a DAK file.  If you would like to have it, write to me.  I don't know how to attach a file here with Blogger.  If someone knows how, would like to be enlightened.

Cotton Pullover for Grandson

Finally got over my funk a little bit and did some knitting.  Never contracted the carona virus and did get both of my Pfizer vaccinations.  Dont' know what has been the problem.  Hope to shape up and knit and post some more stuff.  As always the picture doesn't do it justice.  Really does look better in person. Weird dark shadowy rainy day today affecting the photo.  The armhole decreases really are the same.

Just in case you have a 8-9-10 year old to knit for, here is a pattern  you could use. Write to me if you can use the Designaknit file and I'll email it to you.  Otherwise, you can follow the directions below.

Pullover for Luca age 9

Midgauge (SR 860 + ribber)

 by Mar Heck  3-9-21

Notes:

*  Used Conshohocken cotton yarn---has a core that is roving-like with a stronger thread wrapped around.  Shrinks terribly so I knit two gigantic rectangles, guessed that it would be enough yarn to knit the sweater, washed in hot water and dried in dryer.  Then re-wound onto cones.  Should be sufficiently pre-shrunk.  Had to clean a lot of fluff out of the dryer!!! It’s really soft, one positive thing to say about it.

* Sweater is a size 10 as measured by store-bought boys’ sweater.

* Gauge for main pieces is 5 st and 6 rows to one inch at T6

* T 3/3 for ribbing. 

^sleeves 22 rows

^ front and back bottom ribbing 8 rows

^ neck 10 rows

Transferred rib stitches to main bed and knit right to left with one row T 8 for loop through loop bind off.

 

* DAK shape file is for the pieces not including ribbing.

* Start with waste yarn and ravel cord for all 4 pieces.  When done, turn the piece upside down and do the ribbing.  Bind off for the cotton yarn was nicer than the cast on.  First used a bind off around the gate pegs and it flared too much.  Loop through loop looks better.

 

*  Neck is big because L wants to wear a cotton T shirt underneath and doesn’t like tight necks.  Can be adjusted.

* Neck was done with FF decreases one side at a time rather than short rowing.  First time doing neck this way and I like it.  Easier to do with this machine than short rowing.  Needles kept popping into work when short rowing, frustrating the heck out of me.  Blue air.  Maybe need a new sponge bar???????

* This yarn is hard to work with since it has NO stretch.  Next time will use an easier-to-work- with yarn.

 

 

 

Now….what to do with all this extra pre-shrunk yarn?????

Sorry the numbers are a bit blurry.  I can't seem to copy them so they show up well.

Easy Machine Knit Pillow Project

 Too much time on the computer, too many movies, and too much political stuff makes for an odd existence these days.  Can't seem to concentrate on anything too complicated, so I decided to use up some of my nice Brown Sheep wool and make some pillows for one of my couches.  I hadn't used too many of the built-in patterns on my 970, usually preferring to do my own thing. Can't erase them from the CB1 so why not give some of them a try?  So here goes my easy project:

The picture makes them look like they are different sizes.  They really are all the same.  It's the angle I took the picture from, I guess.  The 3 in the middle are from the 970 (maybe also other Brother models ?) and the 2 end ones were downloaded from an old DAK file I had.  I wanted to make them approximately 17" x 17" so at T 10 I cast on 120 stitches and knit 300 rows.  My gauge was 7 stitches and 9 rows to the inch. If you want to make some to your specifications, you'll want to figure out your gauge with the yarn you plan to use.  Close is probably good enough for this project.

 I also sewed a cotton fabric lining for each and used the lining to stuff  with the poly fiber fill.  Didn't want the filling to work its way out of the knitting.  After sewing the lining shut I folded the knitting over it and seamed the sides and bottom.  Couldn't be much easier.  Hope they won't ever need to be laundered in my lifetime...

Baby Elf Hat on the standard gauge machine

 

I wanted to give this hat pattern a Norwegian name.  So, I tried the Google translation service  for English to Norwegian and here are some suggestions.  Not sure which would be most true.

Maybe a Norwegian speaking person could help me out.

Anyway, here’s my first attempt at a 3-6 month hat.  Pretty cute. The size seems ok, but I don’t have a baby to try it on. So this is my best guess. Will be donated, so size isn’t crucial right now. Finished dimensions (including ribs) are width at tip 6”, width above ribbing 5”, top to bottom of the neck 6”.

Yarn: from my stash, acrylic. Use something that gets close to this gauge. Mine had no label.

Machine:  standard gauge with ribber

Gauge for stockinette:  31 st = 4” and 37 rows = 4”  @T 7.  Kinda weird, I know but close is ok I would think. 

Directions:

Overview… (knit from front of face to back of head)

1.     75 needles 1 x 1 rib.  Do Susan Gualiumi’s nifty cast on for rib.  My new bestie because it lies perfectly flat, no flare, but is still stretchy.

 Use the manual’s cast on with waste yarn, (zig zag row) insert rib comb, add one barrel weight in the middle,  do 3 rows circular, cancel circular and knit about 1” of rib with this waste yarn.  Tension doesn’t matter so much here. Change back to circular and k the last 2 rows with ravel cord.  Snip waste yarn and ravel cord. It’s ok if you forget to switch to ravel cord, but it’s harder to remove at the end than it is when you use ravel cord. 

2.     Main part.  With main yarn, T6/6 do the manual’s cast on again and knit  12 rows ribbing.

3.    Change to regular sinker plate and transfer rib stitches to main bed.  Knit stockinette at T7 to RC 38, which should be about  5”.

4.    Begin short rowing so that you get the elvish point at the back of the head. Important to weight the knitting so the stitches don't pop off.  Set machine to hold.   *CAR put 7 N in hold at the left of the knitting. Knit across, wrap the end st so you don’t get a hole.  Put 7 needles on right in hold.  Knit across to the right and wrap the end st.* Continue from * to * until you have 5 stitches left in work.  Put 2 in hold, knit across and wrap, put two on right in hold, knit to the right. 

5.    Put all stitches back in work (or just undo the hold setting) and knit 2 rows.  Bind off.

6.     Stitch the back of the head seam by hand.

7.    Bottom neck ribbing.  With the wrong side of the knitting facing you, stretch out the bottom of the hat to pick up 70 stitches.  Try to pick up in the ditch between stitches at the same place across.  Knit 2 rows stockinette at T 10.

8.    Change sinker plate to rib, transfer every other stitch to ribber.  At T 6/6, rib 12 rows.  Transfer rib stitches to main bed and bind off with your favorite bind off technique.  On this one I did around the gate pegs. 

9.    I cord Straps:  I know some object to ties, but many babies do live after having had their hats tied under their chins, so I’m going with it.  If you have another method, have at it.

Pick up 4 stitches at the bottom corner of one front.  Set carriage to slip one way, knit the other.  (Brother, one part button.) At T 9 knit 150 rows and bind off.  Same for other side.  Hide yarn ends and tie a knot at the ends of the ties.

Remove the waste yarn.  There are a few yarn ends to hide. I did not steam the hat to block it, but you may want to.

Notes: You may also want to add a tassel or a pompom to the point of the hat and to the I cord ends.  A fairisle pattern would be nice too.  Because the seam at the back of the head can be bulky, next time I will take the top off on waste yarn and kitchener stitch the seam shut. This is an easy knit and a good way to practice short rowing if you are not used to doing that technique.  I wouldn't say this is a fast knit because of the transfers between beds, but worth it, I think. If you don't have a ribber, a hung hem would do.

Super warm hat for winter

Having a hard time motivating myself to knit these days.  Ironic since I do have all the time in the world staying home, hiding from the pandemic.  But, thought I would try a hat for my son.  Winter is coming, for sure. If you want to follow this pattern, you'll need to use a ribber.  Maybe you could do a mock rib for the cuff, but I don't know how that would look, haven't tried it.

This one is extra super warm because it's doubled.  Measurements are about 21" around and 9" tall with the rib folded.  If a person wanted a slouch-look, you wouldn't have to fold the cuff.  This is an adult sized hat, so if you need a different size, you'll have to adjust stitches and rows.

 My gauge with Tamm Sport was 7 stitches and 9 rows to one inch.

*I started with waste yarn, every other needle, over 148 needles. Knit about an inch then changed to the main yarn.  (No need to cast on, just knit right over the waste yarn.) 

*Knit one row with the eon arrangement then bring all needles to work.  

*Knit 100 rows of the stockinette, then transfer to 1 x 1 rib.  

*Knit 60 rows rib, then transfer back to stockinette. 

* Knit 99 rows so that the carriage ends up on the left.  

*Transfer to every other needle, knit one row left to right. Leave a long tail of the main yarn.  

*Take off on about an inch of waste yarn, still in the eon arrangement.

* Fold the hat in half so the two ends meet and hand sew the stitches together.  Remove waste yarn and cinch the stitches as tight as you can.  

*Then seam the side with a mattress stitch outside and inside.

I made two I cords for the top, not a pom pom, because my son doesn't like pom poms.  They are 5 stitches wide and 80 rows long.  (With I cord, the knitting is really only 40 rows long.) I stuffed the two ends into the hole at the top, which conveniently closes it up.  secured the ends on the inside.  Then I tied a knot on the outside top. (You can kind of see it in the picture.) Both ends also have a knot.  Actually I do like pom poms.  One would cover the top hole nicely too.

I would not say this is a quick-to-knit hat because of the transferring of stitches.  However, some acrylic yarns if used single layer are not warm enough in our climate, so the doubled ones are better.  If you wanted, you could put a fairisle pattern on the top half. 

Twisted Headband

I don't think I look that great in headbands, but I just had to try this one.  Check out Itmakesyousmile on Ravelry.  She has good directions and some examples.  I used my Brother 970 standard with ribber, but you could design your own==stockinette, tuck, fairisle, slip, etc.  I just didn't want to bother with a seam up the back.
Here's the skinny on the one I made:
(I made the smaller one, but next will make the larger.)

It knits up really fast and a little longer to twist and seam.  But, not too bad.  (That's a scan.  Looks much nicer in person, of course.)  If you have trouble with the twist, there are videos on Youtube.

Peace from Dale of Norway

A few years ago I downloaded this gorgeous pattern, free from Dale of Norway.

 I haven't yet knit the sweater, but I used the stitch designs to make a warm scarf.  I wore it to a club meeting and one of the gals asked if I would make it for her dad.  He's Norwegian American and proud of his heritage.  So, since I already had the scarf pattern in DAK, it was pretty easy to knit.  I confess I had a mishap about 200 rows in and had to start over.  No problem, really.  I didn't unravel the piece, which I now call my "swatch".  I will try to turn it into a dog sweater for my daughter's little mutt.

Anyway, I am totally in love with this design.  You too can get it here:  https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/334-01-peace-jubileumsgenser
You will have to convert it to DAK or I will be willing to email you what I have. (It's a DAK file so you need the program.)

By request, I knit it with acrylic.  Here are some pictures:
This is the back which was originally the design up the sleeves.

This is the front

Because on our knitting machines one can't knit fairisle in the round, the scarf is knit flat then seamed up the back.  Takes some time, but I don't mind watching a movie and hand stitching.  Isn't the pattern yummy?  Took me about 3 hrs to knit (mainly because I had to start over) and 2 hrs to sew up.  Imagine how long it would take to knit by hand!

Sweater Vest for Preemies

I am in search of a project for charity for 2020.  I like to do multiples of the same pattern to make life easy on myself.  Last year it was hats, and I’m over that for a while, even though they were super fast.  This little vest took me an hour to knit and about a half hour to sew all together.  I’m hoping I get faster at it.

Came upon this pattern on the Long Buckby Machine Knitters website a while ago and thought it was such a good idea.  I do want to give credit since this is such an innovative idea.  Seems useful.  The body warmer/vest is for low birth weight babies or those with lines in their arms in the neonatal intensive care unit of the hospital.  Having no sleeves, the vest wouldn’t interfere with the medical intervention.

Of course, like most machine (and maybe hand) knitters, I had to change the pattern a bit. Specifically, I decreased more stitches at the shoulders. Also I didn’t add anything decorative to the body since I wanted this to be speedy.  This is my first draft of the revised pattern, the one I used to knit the vest in the picture.  I am contemplating making the armholes shorter/smaller, but maybe is ok the way it is since the baby would have a sleeper under it.

Machine- standard gauge

Yarn- basically any that works with your machine.  Size isn’t so critical, it will turn out to be a mini size.  Although wool would be warm, acrylic is probably the best choice for easy laundering.  Only takes a few ounces.

Gauge- At tension 7, I got about 7 stitches and 9 rows to the inch on the stockinette, resulting in the vest being about 6 inches wide after the bottom rib and about 6 inches long.  Notice I’m a tad vague here.  J

You will also need 3 small buttons and sewing thread

DIRECTIONS

This is knit in one piece up to the armholes.

RC 000  1 x 1 Rib over 83 stitches, end stitches on the main bed.  After cast on change to T 2/2, knit 10 rows for the rib,  then transfer stitches to the main bed. Attach main carriage. Increase one stitch to 84 stitches.  If you don’t have a ribber, you could do mock rib or a hung hem. Just a word about hung hems on such a small garment, though.  Tried it, even drastically changing the underside of the hem to be tighter---it tends to flip up.  You are certainly welcome to try other hems, though.

Body knit to RC 36.

Armhole and Shoulder  (Be sure to pass the carriage far enough to register the rows. ) Put machine on hold.  Put all stitches in hold except for the 17 stitches on the right end of the machine.  Very furthest stitches on the right end up to be the center of the vest.  Use a full fashioned decrease.  On RC 37 decrease one stitch on left and one stitch on the right.  Knit 2 rows.  RC  39  decrease one stitch on left and one stitch on the right.  Knit 2 rows.  Decrease one stitch on the right only now every 2 rows until you have 10 stitches left.  Knit to RC 64.  Take these stitches off on several rows of waste yarn.

Other armhole and shoulder:  Since your stitches and machine are in hold you can scoot your carriage to the other side of the bed with no dropping of stitches. Repeat what you did on the first shoulder, reversing the shaping.  Take these 10 stitches also off on several rows of waste yarn.

Back Turn the row counter back to 36.  Take the machine off hold.  Knit one row.  Bind off 8 stitches at the beginning of  each of the next 2 rows. Now you have 34 stitches for the back.

Knit plain to RC 64. Put machine on hold, stitches to hold except for the far right 10 stitches.  Take these stitches off on several rows of waste yarn.

Carriage to the other side of the bed.  Put 10 stitches in work and take these stitches off on several rows of waste yarn.

Bind off around the gate pegs these back neck stitches with main yarn.

Join the shoulders  With the right (stockinette ) side facing you, fold back the waste yarn of the shoulder so you can see the purl bumps.  Hang the 10 shoulder stitches, needles all the way out and stitches pushed back.  Fold garment so wrong side is facing you, with the matching shoulder, hang the 10 shoulder stitches in the hooks of the needles.  Close the latches and with a straight edge push the stitches in the hooks through the back stitches.  Use the latch tool to bind off around the gate pegs.  Repeat for the other shoulder.

Button band Do a 1 x 1 rib over 9 needles (5 on main bed and 4 on the ribber).  After the cast on, change to T 2/2 RC 000 and knit 4 rows.  (Super easy buttonhole) *Make a buttonhole by transferring the middle stitch on the main bed to an adjacent stitch on the ribber.  Leave the main bed needle in work.  Knit 12 rows.* Repeat two more times for 3 buttonholes total.  (Row 4, 16, and 28)  Knit to RC 140. Do a loop through loop bind off so the end looks sorta like the beginning.  To do this, transfer the rib stitches to the main bed.  Knit the last row right to left at T 6.  Pull the second stitch through the first across the bed using the larch tool. Fasten off the last loop.

BTW,  I purchased a rib comb that accommodates 60 stitches and it’s ideal for small ribs like this of only 9 stitches. Much lighter weight than the regular ribber comb. Well worth it.  Otherwise you have to use a big clunky ribber comb that came with your ribber, or devise some other method of holding down the stitches.

If you are making this without a ribber you could hang the front stitches all the way around.  Remember to add 3 button holes.

Finishing Sorry there are so many ends to work in.  Will see if I can minimize this.  Remove waste yarn at the shoulders. Find the middle of the rib strip  and the middle of the back neck. Depending on which side you put the buttonholes, you can indicate boy or girl, but this seems unimportant to me.   Pin the mid points together so the band sits evenly.  Mattress stitch the rib to the vest.   Work in the yarn ends.  Sew on 3 small buttons with sewing thread.

I didn’t steam this, but you could. It is recommended to wash without perfume in the detergent or dryer sheets. Put in a sandwich bag to keep clean when donating. 

Thanks to the Long Buckby machine knitters for inspiring me!  Let me know if you give this a try and any modifications you did.

Baby, it's cold outside. Need some footies??

Midgauge Slipper Footies

Knitting Notes and tips:

These are knit on the main bed only, on any midgauge or bulky machine.  Yes, I hid the seam that goes up the side of the instep in the picture, but honestly the seam is not bothersome.   I used two strands of Jaegerspun acrylic yarn which was labeled 3/8.     Use any yarn that achieves the tension indicated in the pattern.  It seems you have to do a bit of experimentation to fit a specific person in which case you'd need to change the stitches and rows. If you are knitting these for charity, they will fit someone.  One strand of navy and one of black made the slipper appear to be knit from variegated yarn.  I strung them through their own eyelets and joined them at the carriage.  To prevent a hole forming on the heel, take the purl bump of the adjacent stitch at the inside of the end of short rowing and exchange it with the adjacent needle. Also try exchanging the stitches to see if you like the look of this better.   

 Because of the rolled hem, it is best to use the stockinette side as the right side.  If you don’t like the rolled hem, you could knit rib either by hand or knit the cuff by latching up the stitches, then proceed with the pattern. Or, if you have a machine with a ribber, have at it.  Since these work up so fast, they’d be a good project for Operation Toasty Toes or other charity that takes slippers.   If you are knitting these with cotton, it’s really important to swatch and wash since cotton is notorious for shrinking.  Call me weird, but I like to knit a big rectangle, wash it and put it in the dryer, then rewind the yarn.  That way it is preshrunk and the gauge is pretty much accurate.

Machine:  Any midgauge; bulky would work achieving the same gauge

Yarn: Any yarn to achieve the same tension if you want to follow the pattern. I used yarn that was slightly thinner than sport and doubled it.  Do a swatch with your chosen yarn to get the same gauge.

Tension:  at T 5, 4 st x 7 rows = 1” with yarn doubled

Finished size of large = man’s shoe size 10-11 

 Sizes medium and (large).  If one number, it applies to both sizes.  You’ll have to experiment if the first try doesn’t fit.

Directions:

With waste yarn, cast on over 46 (48) N, knit a few rows, one row ravel cord.  With main yarn ewrap on, leaving a 12” tail for seaming.  Knit at T 3 for 12 R for roll hem.  Change to T 5 Knit 8 rows (7 rows for second footie to end on left side of bed).  Note:  if you want these to rise higher on the ankle, knit more rows here.

Heel – Set carriage to hold position.  Pull all needles left of zero to hold.  Short row down to 8 working needles by pulling the working N closest to the carriage to hold before each row. Reverse short row by putting the needle opposite the carriage into working position, knit the row, until all N are in work again.  Remember to close up the hole before you begin doing the reverse short rowing.

Put carriage on N. All needles knit.

Foot-  RC 000.  Knit 42 (48) rows. (Use an odd number to end up at the left side for the second footie’s heel.)

Toe – Knit exactly as you did the heel.   (Another option is to do ff decreases for the toe.  Some people like the look of this better.)

Knit one row overall with main yarn and then remove on several rows of waste yarn.  

Fold the waste yarn back and kitchener stitch the toe seam.  I find it is easier to graft from the purl side.  Remove waste yarn.  Do a flat seam for the side. Hide yarn tails.  Knit the second footie putting the heel and toe on the other side of the bed. 

Using the same basic design, you can make women’s footies.  You’ll need to experiment to find out how many stitches and rows to do.  My stitches and rows for a size 6 shoe with  Bernat Baby Boucle was 6 st and 8 rows to 1”  I cast on 42 stitches, did 10 rows for the hem and did 38 rows for the foot.   I’m not even sure this yarn is made anymore so you will really have to calculate your own with your chosen yarn! 

The fluffiness of the boucle made it ideal to use the purl side as the right side.  When you do this it totally hides seams so that the slipper looks like it is knit in the round.  The only difference from the above pattern is that, rather than making a rolled hem, this hem is hung from the first row.  You would begin with waste yarn, knit a few rows, then change to main yarn and knit the number of rows you want for the depth of the hem x 2.  (Don’t do a permanent cast on with the main yarn, just knit.) To make the hem, pick up the first row and hang it on top of the stitches in work.  It naturally rolls to the outside.  On the picture you can see that the hem is stockinette on the outside but the body of the footie is purl stitches.

Be sure to write down your gauge, number of stitches to use, number of rows for the hem, rows for the foot and anything else.  I have been known to knit merrily away and forgot to write down the vital info so had to take a wild guess for slipper #2.  Sometimes successfully!  Sometimes not.