The Evil Static Monster Strikes Again

Long post----ignore if you don't have a static problem.

In my last post I mentioned that I was having a little static issue.  And if you look carefully at the doggie sweater you can see some pattern errors.   Well, the problem got worse and worse.  None of the tactics I have always used and that always worked before fixed the problem.  Thinking I was the anti-static queen, years ago I did a post that listed several strategies should your machine become infected. I should mention that I recommended an anti-static wrist band that people who work on computers use.  I have since been told that wearing one was worse than useless and would turn you and the machine into a Frankenstein crazy static loop.  However, the other suggestions were useful if your static issue isn't super horrible.

So, I doubled down doing all the things I have done in the past.  Even bought a new sponge bar, thinking the old was causing my issue.  Then I thought the pattern I downloaded to my 970 was faulty or Gasp! the 970 was dying.  Looked at a lot of Youtube videos o the subject, but none exactly fit my particular situation.

I wrote to Michael Becker of Distinctive Knits because he has helped me with other things in the past.  He recommended I construct a grounding cable and connect the machine with  it to the grounding part of an electrical wall outlet.  I replied that I was unreasonably proud of myself when I can successfully change a lightbulb.  No way could I construct one.

Then a machine knitter, Sherry, contacted me about the Doing DAK book I had written.  I told Sherry about the problem I was having and what Michael Becker recommended.  And coincidentally she is super knowledgeable about electricity.  She found a ready-made grounding cable for me on Amazon!!! This is what I purchased.  The same company sells a cheaper one that is 8 ft long, but I figured the longer one would work better for my set-up.

So simple to use. First you push the pointy end into the alligator clip, attach the clip to the mast of your machine, then plug the other end into the wall outlet so that it is grounded.  Voila!!! It works and no more mispatterning. Easier than changing a lightbulb almost. I still spray my yarn with Lori Lynn Yarn spray and use dryer sheets, but my problem seems to be fixed primarily by this cable.  I have since knit several swatches with and without the ribber with NO PROBLEMS. 

Sherry and I have become email friends, which is really fun, and she is in the process of making these cables for the members of her machine knitting club.  Serandipity that this worked out the way it did and I am super grateful to her for researching cables to get me the best one for the knitting machine.

New Year New Dog New Sweater

 

This is Yogi.  He is a BichonFrise/poodle mix.  He is not green or blue around the eyes, but my camera thinks he is.  Weird.  He just got a haircut so is cold without his shaggy long coat.  I'm trying to perfect the right size for the sweater.  One I made last summer was too big, so I'm trying again.  This one is snug but he doesn't seem to mind. Am going to adjust and try again.  After all, a guy can't have too many sweaters.  Seems kind of sissy, but he honestly needs a little help.  My husband would have said, "That's not a real dog!" However, he is here to stay, we just got dumped upon with 15 inches of snow...and he can barely navigate through it.

If you also have about a 15 lb doggie who could use a sweater, here's how I made this one.  This is the DAK design for the sweater back. You certainly could knit it plain, do stripes, design your own instead.

My tension with some sport weight Tamm yarns was 7 stitches and 8  rows to one inch @T10 on my 970 standard Brother machine. I centered the DAK .stp design on the needle bed and only used 84 stitches and 96 rows of it.  If you need more stitches and rows, they are there for you.  If you would like the DAK design, write to me and I will email it to you.

Below are schematics, very not to scale.

DAK notation--at row#, decrease or increase #stitches every so many rows, #times.

Example--at row 5, decrease 1 stitch (both sides) every 5 rows twice (on row5 and 10)

HEMS-bottoms of pieces, use waste yarn and knit some rows. 1 r ravel cord.  Insert main yarn, at tension 6 knit 12 rows, at tension 10 knit one row, at tension 8 knit 12 rows.  Pick up stitches across above waste and hang onto row in work. Use design until top hem. I didn't put a design on the underbelly piece.

For hems on tops of pieces use ravel cord to mark the row you want to hang up. Reverse the tensions.  First T8, 1 r T10, last T6.  Hang stiches and bind off with your favorite method.

My fractions of an inch are not exact, but it shouldn't matter. One hint to make the thing fit better in the armholes is to poof out the back area a little more than the underbellypiece. Otherwise I think it's pretty straight-forward as to how to sew the pieces together.

  As I was knitting this, I had all sorts of problems that I usually do not have. There were dropped stitches and mispatterning.  My aged mind finally figured out that I needed a new sponge bar.  I had a spare that I inserted but it too was not in perfect shape. Since it was a tad better I was able to finish the thing but there were still some pattern errors.  (don't look too closely.) Right away I ordered a new one from Cindy's Knitting Room in Princeton, MN.  I wanted to mention her business because she is so nice, prompt, fair and reasonably priced.  

Write to me if I haven't explained very well.

Patchwork Satchel ©marheck2022

 On a roll now.  A felting project for you.

This purse/tote/satchel is easy to make and is sturdy.  It can be knit on any gauge machine, but a midgauge or bulky machine is preferable; a midgauge was used for the sample.

In selecting yarns, be sure the yarns are 100% wool, not superwash or treated to be washable and dryable.  It’s best to use the same brand for all of the colors.  Even so, the colors will likely felt at
different rates.

I chose saturated colors that are considered to be “jewel tones”.  You may prefer earth tones or pastels.  It’s a good idea to put the colors together and study them a bit, perhaps removing some and adding others as you study the composition.  You could also knit with just two colors for a checkerboard effect.

The purse is constructed so that you attach pieces as you knit.  This eliminates seams. 

This is a good project to use up small amounts of yarn in your stash.

The knitting level is approximately at an advanced beginner level.  Some sewing skills are required.

I lined the bag for extra body, but this is optional.

MACHINE   Pattern is written for the midgauge but a bulky machine would work as well since the science of felting is not so exact anyway .

YARN  I used Paton’s Merino wool-  a medium worsted weight.  I used small amounts of 16 different colors, 2 skeins of the colors used for the hems and straps.  You could successfully use less colors and place them randomly.  If you are using up yarn from your stash, improvise as far as how much of any one color to use.   You can also use a thinner yarn and double it to approximate the medium worsted weight, but do this throughout, not for just selected patches.

GAUGE  Before felting, 4 stitches and 5 rows = 1 inch. 

FINISHED SIZE   14” high by 20 inches wide;  depending on how your yarn felts, it may vary some from this size.

OTHER MATERIALS  five ¾ inch beads for decoration and closure, ¾ yard coordinating lining material, small amount of interfacing for inner pocket, matching sewing thread, large- eyed sewing needle and sewing machine.

KNITTING NOTES

·        As stated above, this pattern provides directions for a midgauge machine.  You can modify for the machine you are using.  That is, if using a bulky, you could multiply stitches and rows by 80% or so, or knit it the same as the directions for a slightly larger bag. If using a standard gauge machine, I would multiply the stitches and rows x 140%.  Always use the highest tension (loosest) for best felting, regardless of which machine you are using.

·        It’s a good idea to do a tension swatch to see what you need to do for each patch. You may want to adjust the size of the squares.  I was aiming for square patches, but mine came out a little on the rectangular side.  Even though I did do a swatch, the knitting tends to shrink more in length than it does in width.   If you’re ok with this, follow the directions as written.  If you want squares, add a few rows to each patch to compensate for the extra shrinkage in length.

·       Examine the edge of the knitting.  You want to be able to identify the loops.  The knitting will have a loop and on top of that a knot.  You will hang the loops to attach one strip or piece to the next.

·       It’s not a bad idea to draw yourself a chart on paper and decide color placement ahead of time.

 

DIRECTIONS

Straps       Knit 2 the same

T 10.(loosest throughout) Ewrap 18 needles, knit 120 rows.  Bind off loosely.  (This size makes a comfortable shoulder strap.)  Fold in half and stitch shut with a mattress stitch.  Two layers makes it stronger.

 

Patchwork strips to make the rectangular sides  - Make two sides 

Strip one:  Cast on with waste yarn over 20 stitches, T 10. and knit a few rows.  RC 000. With main yarn, E wrap on and knit to RC 24.  Drop color one and knit 24 rows of color two.  Drop color two and knit 24 rows of color three.  Drop color three and knit 24 rows of color four.  (RC 96)  Take strip off on a few rows of waste yarn.  Tie yarn ends together so they don’t unravel.

 

Strip two:  Cast on with waste yarn over 20 stitches, T 10. and knit a few rows.  RC 000.  Ewrap on with main yarn.  With the wrong side of strip #one facing you, hang the first loop on the left needle.   With new color main yarn, knit 2 rows.  Pick up the next loop from the completed strip, hang it on the left most needle, knit 2 rows.  When you have reached 24 rows of the new patch, change colors and proceed in the same manner until you reach the top and have added 4 patches.  (RC 96)  Take off on a few rows of waste yarn. Try to make the colors come out so that they line up across from each other.  Fudge if you have to, but if you are picking up loops, not knots, it should come out right.

Strips three and four:  Knit in the same manner as you did strip two.

Tie yarn ends together so they don’t unravel.

Make the second rectangle the same as the first. Hide yarn ends.  Remove waste yarn from the bottom of the bag.

 

SIDE GUSSETS

These are knit while hanging the bottoms and sides at the same time.  (See drawing below.)

 

Cast on with waste yarn over 24 stitches, knit a few rows T 10.  Change to main yarn, knit one row.  ( I knit the bottom of the gusset in one color and the sides of the gussets in a second color, but you can use just one color.)

With the wrong side of rectangle #one facing you, find the exact center of the bottom and hang that stitch on the leftmost needle.  With the wrong side of rectangle #two facing you, find the exact center of the bottom and hang that stitch on the rightmost needle.  Knit two rows.  When you get to the corner, knit 3 rows before hanging rectangle stitches.  (This helps the gusset go more smoothly around the corner.)  Check frequently that you are in the same place on both sides.  If you get off track, it’s best to redo or the bag will bias.  When you have knit the gusset and joined all the way to the top, take off on waste yarn.  Turn the piece around, pick up the bottom stitches from the waste yarn and knit in the other direction.  Difficult to explain, but it’s not hard to do.  When done knitting the second gusset, remove waste yarn.

TOP HEM

You should have 100 stitches on each side of the bag --- 80 from the rectangle, 10 for half of the gusset on both sides.  Hang  one half of the bag stitches, wrong side facing you, decreasing evenly across to 80 stitches.  With main yarn, knit 13 rows.  Pick up and hang first row to make hem.  Knit one row by hand left to right and bind off loosely. Repeat for the other side of the bag.

 

I CORDS

 

Side ties:  Set machine to slip one way, knit the other to make I cords.  Knit a 4 stitch I cord, changing colors as desired to RC 220. Bind off by placing the outer stitches on the center stitch and binding off the two remaining stitches. Make two the same.

Front closure:  Knit one four stitch I cord 80 rows long.  Bind off  as above.

Short I cord decorations:  With the wrong side of one side facing you, fold down the hem toward you.  Pick up 3 stitches from the right side, 2 ½ inches from the edge and immediately under the hem.  Set machine to slip one way, knit the other to make 3 stitch I cords.  Knit 40 rows.  Bind off as above to one stitch.  Repeat across the bag, staggering the I cords every 4 stitches or so and changing colors and lengths at random.  My I cords were 20, 30, 40 and 50 rows long using all the colors in the bag, one to each I cord.  Leave a 2 ½ inch space when you reach the end.  With a large-eyed embroidery needle, hide yarn ends by sewing up into the tube and snipping.

Repeat on the other side of the bag.

FINISHING

Sew the two sides together at the top hem with a mattress stitch, both sides.  Felt the purse, I cord side ties, front closure I cord and straps at the same time in the washing machine.  Hot/cold cycle with a small amount of detergent and a few other smooth pieces of clothing.  (No towels.)  Stick around to watch the progress.  Repeat cycle if necessary.  When felted to your satisfaction, stuff the satchel with scrunched up plastic bags and lay flat to dry.

 

Pinch the sides together at the top and with a large knitting needle (at least size 10) poke a hole through all 4 layers.  Thread the I cord side ties through these holes and tie a knot close to the purse.  This cinches in the purse at the top.  String a bead onto the end of each side I cord and tie a knot to hold in place.  Repeat for other side. If you don't cinch in the sides, the top is too wide open. 

With a sewing machine, sew straps to purse about 3 inches in from each side.   Sew a few times for strength. Fold the front closure I cord in half and sew the two ends to the top middle of one side, on the inside.  Sew a bead onto the purse, measuring  where it should be. 

Slip over the bead for measurement and sew together just above the bead with sewing thread so that the top stays closed.

LINING

Lay the bag on a piece of paper for a pattern and trace around it leaving room for 5/8” seams on all sides and a 2” hem on the top.  Cut out two layers of your lining with this pattern.

For pockets, cut two rectangles about 10” wide x 8” long out of the lining material and same out of interfacing.  With right sides of the lining material together and the interfacing on top, sew around 3 sides.  Turn right side out.  Stitch down the pocket to one side of the lining about two inches down from the top and  in the middle.  Sew vertical lines to divide the pocket for pens, cell phones, etc.  Embroider initials on the other side of the lining.  With right sides together, sew around the lining, leaving the top open.  Push into the felted bag, tacking the bottom of the bag to the bottom of the lining in a few places on the inside.  Fold under the top hem to cover up the machine stitching.  Hand sew with tiny stitches and doubled thread. 

I hope you enjoy this project. It certainly will be unique to you.

I know an old lady who has so many empty yarn cones

 Oh boy.  I know it has been an awfully long time.  I have lots of reasons both positive and negative, but I'll skip that part. Move right along if you are not interested in gnomes.  What follows is a simplistic description of how  these cuties were made.  You can congratulate me on recycling every piece of them.

I should have been done with gnomes, nisse, by now, but I still think they  are cute, especially for Christmas.  These were given to my daughter for their fireplace mantel as a Christmas decoration.  Mom, dad and child.  Here's what I came up with:

My ingredients--

*an old Norwegian sweater that I made with my very first knitting machine 30 years ago (yikes, I must have been only 9 years old!)---a sweater that I haven't worn for eons

*a sharp scissors

*paper to make cone patterns

*3 empty cardboard yarn cones cut with box cutter to 6", 8" and 10" heights

*glue gun and lots of glue sticks

* pom poms

*fake fur fabric

*nylon and a little stuffing for noses, needle and thread, pink blush

*yarn and ribbon for braids

*snowflake buttons for the boys

How I made them:

After cutting the cones to the various heights (surprisingly easy to cut), I rolled them onto a piece of paper to make 3 patterns.

Then I cut out pieces for the bodies from the sweater, using those paper patterns.  I glued them onto the cones as quickly as possible so that the pieces wouldn't unravel.  Hate that glue gun==== I always burn myself.  But the artist has to suffer, don't you know. I tried to tuck in the raw edge of the seam down the backs, but  they don't look too pretty. These are the backs. Extra fabric was tucked up into the cone and glued down, ouch.

Next I made noses by cutting 3 circles from an old clean nylon. Hand stitched around the circle, cinched it up and stuffed them with a bit of fiberfill. dabbed some pink blush onto them.

From the fake fur I cut out two beards and a brim for the girl's hat. Just eyeballed the shapes and sizes. The beards are basically triangles. When you cut this weird fabric it works best to draw the shape and cut from the back side.  Slide your scissors under the fur to lose as little of it as possible.

From the sleeve bottoms of the sweater I cut triangles for the 2 boys' hats. Nice to have ribbing for the bands of the hats. For the bottom of the girl's hat I just cut a triangle from the body of the sweater, planning to tuck the edge and glue it in place. These triangles were about 8" long tapering from the circumference of the head to the tip.  With right sides together I seamed the hats, stitching by hand.  All 3 hats got a pom pom glued to the ends.

The order of doing things was this:

*glue sweaters onto cones for bodies

*glue on beards

* glue noses in place and add a bit of pink blush

*make 2 braids out of yarn and secure with bows. (daughter is Korean so braids are not blonde)

* pull hats on, having the back lower than the fronts and covering parts of the noses. Glue the boys' hats all around. Glue buttons onto boys' hats and a band of fur onto the girl's hat. Tuck under bottom of girl's hat to cover tops of braids so no raw edge and glue in place. 

I probably could have added something inside the cones to make them heavier, but they seem to stay upright ok. Also didn't add a circle to cover up the bottoms, but could have.

Done!  Have a good chuckle at how ridiculously cute they are and compliment yourself for keeping some stuff out of the landfill.

Water Colors Cowl Machine Knit Throwback

I'm having work done on my house---4 guys here.  I feel like I'm trapped doing nothing really until they leave.  So I decided to look over my patterns on my computer and  saw one---- "Oh yeah.  I liked how I did this one." and decided to post the directions. Whew! That was 10 years ago. Hope I explained it well enough because it's kind of an unusual way to knit. 

Water Colors Cowl

By Mar Heck ©2011

A unique looking cowl that can be knit on any gauge knitting machine.  No ribber is required.  The knitting is done in the round so that when you have reached the desired height, you bind off and there is no finishing required.  The technique can be adapted to scarves too.

Machine:  Any, no ribber required. 

Yarn:  Any that is interesting…Variegated or hand dyed yarn with long dye repeats works well.  One color is interesting too though.  The purl side and knit side have entirely different appearance.  You decide which you like better. Amount needed will vary according to size you make.   Yarn used in the size small sample cowl:  Serenity Garden Yarn from the Deborah Norville Collection.  One skein, 2.29 ounces/65 grams.  185 yards/ 169 meters.  Microfiber.  A larger cowl will require more yarn.

Gauge:  Not important, whatever works well on your machine with your chosen yarn.  You’ll need to decide how wide you want each strip to be.  On the standard gauge try 12 stitches to start.  IF you don’t like, rip out and change. The fewer the number of needles you cast on, the longer it will take to reach the desired size.  BUT it depends on the “look” you want.  With sock yarn and the standard gauge machine, I started with 12 stitches, T 6, and increased (loosened) the tension one dot each revolution to shape it a little. (Conversely, you could start loose and tighten as you go.  Doesn’t matter.) Or, don't bother to change the tension from start to finish.

Skill level:  Beginner with some experience

Finished size:  For the cowl, suggested sizes are Small= 20” around and 9” tall; medium =22” around and 10” tall; large =24” around and 12” tall.  However, you can make it any size you desire. 

TIPS FOR THIS TECHNIQUE  ~  READ FIRST

·     *  This technique involves knitting on the bias by decreasing on the left and increasing on the right.  When the desired width is achieved (the width you want to go around the neck), you start to attach loops beginning at the start of the strip and continuing around, making a tube.  When deciding on the width to go around the neck, add 2+” because you lose an inch or so on each end as the first and last triangles are formed.

·      *You will need to make sure you hang each loop only once and don’t skip any loops or you’ll change the circumference of the tube and interrupt the lacey hole pattern!

·      *With stockinette stitch as the public side, the increases make a nice little decorative hole that spirals around the thing and the doubled stitch makes a nice chain edge, also decorative.  With the purl side as the public side, the fabric has a woven look to it. (See photos at the end of the pattern.)

·      ( Move claw weights up frequently, especially on the right side since it is hanging at a slightly different angle. Or, if your strip is narrow enough, hang on with one hand while running the carriage with the other.

·     * You’ll be knitting across the needle bed, starting at the left side, and will most likely need to remove the knitting on waste yarn when you get to the right side.  Hang the stitches on the left side again and remove waste yarn.  Or, use a garter bar.

·   *   I like to pull the needles all the way out when I increase and decrease so that if interrupted I can see at a glance where I am in the pattern when I return.

·      *Don’t forget to loosen (or tighten) the tension as you complete a revolution if you have decided to construct your cowl this way.  The beginning tab indicates where you should do this. (If knitting a scarf, keep tension the same throughout.)

·     * If your ribber bed is still attached, it’s likely you’ll be resting your left hand on it.  It’s a good idea to put a ribber cover on or hang a protective piece of fabric or your hand will get really sore!  It’s actually easier to see what you’re doing if you remove your ribber.

DIRECTIONS

1.  Knit the first round on the bias, measuring to obtain the width you want to go around your neck or two times the width of your scarf + an inch or two for both (because you lose width in the beginning and ending triangles).  To knit this strip on the bias, start out by ewrapping your chosen number of N on the left side of the needle bed.  You may crochet cast on if you prefer.  Knit 2 rows. (It’s hard to knit at first so bring all N out before knitting to make sure the stitches knit off, hang on with your hand for weight or attach claw weights.)

* Decrease one stitch on the left by putting the second to the end stitch on the left end needle and then move the doubled stitch to the right one needle.   Put the emptied needle out of work. Increase one stitch on the right by pulling a needle all the way out.  Knit two rows.*  Repeat from * to * for desired length. You will continue with the same number of stitches throughout.  If you find suddenly that you have less or more stitches than you started with, you either forgot to decrease or increase.  You should rip back to where there are the correct number of stitches.  L  

This is one time you can measure your strip while it’s on the machine.  You knit this single strip just once.

2.  Attach and knit as you go to make a spiral.  Think of how the cardboard on many toilet paper rolls are constructed. You’ll be knitting around it making a spiral.  As the knitting is facing you, you’ll be knitting the inside of the tube.  (The toilet roll is given to just help you visualize this.)

 Bring the beginning end of the strip toward the needle bed with the knit side facing you, curling it around so that you can identify the first loop you made in #1.  From front to back, you will be putting a loop from the beginning of the strip onto the left needle.  You should be able to see that knit stitches of the strip will be on top of or next to knit stitches and purl on top of or next to purl.  Make sure you haven’t twisted the strip.  Check twice!

 This is the sequence:  ^Decrease one stitch on the left by putting the second to the end stitch on the left end needle and then move the doubled stitch to the right one needle.  Hang a loop from the strip on the first needle on the left.  (3 stitches on that needle now.) Increase one stitch on the right by pulling a needle all the way out.  Knit two rows.^  Repeat from ^ to ^ continuing to hang the next loop as you move around the tube.  The simple increases on the right side form the loops that you will eventually hang.  There is no beginning or end to the row, you just continue on around your tube.

Picking up stitches:  On the picture above, the red represents a stitch previously picked up.  The next stitch (loop)  to be picked up and hung is green.  It lies horizontally, whereas the stitch that was picked up previously is vertical and stretched out.  You’ll be tempted to pick up the red one.  Don’t do it!  J

Now decide how long you want the cowl to be from chest to chin or how long you want the scarf to be.  Keep going until you like the size or run out of yarn. 

Finish:  Bind off around the gate pegs, weave in yarn ends.  Fold over the beginning tab or tack down.   

This technique done as a scarf:

Knit side as right side pictured on the left, doubled stitches make a decorative ridge. Compare to purl side as right side pictured on the right.  Stitches look woven.  The lace holes seem to show up better on the purl side.  You actually do not have to decide until the cowl is done.

Once again, hope I explained well enough.  It's not hard to knit, just hard to explain.

Premie Standard Gauge Machine Knit Ballet Sweater

 

(Midgauge Baby Ballet can be found on the right side of the blog.  This one is a little shorter.)

 I'm in the process of knitting baby stuff to donate.  This is a super easy one for premies and if it weren't for all the yarn ends would go super fast.  Some suggestions for those pesky things below.

Skill Level:  Beginner 

Machine:  Standard 4.5 mm gauge

                        No ribber needed

Yarn:  Any that knits close to gauge.  My yarn is pretty skinny.

Gauge:  8 stitches and 12 rows to one inch at T7                                                                                                                

            If you want to knit this but your yarn obtains a different gauge, you can do the math.  First, knit a gauge swatch with your yarn.

            Formula:  Pattern’s rows or stitches and DIVIDE them by this pattern’s gauge, then take this figure TIMES the NEW gauge you obtained    (do the same for stitches and rows)

 

            EXAMPLE

            stitches in the pattern back 44 divided by 8 stitches per inch =5.5

            your gauge ex 4st to an inch x 5.5 = 22 st

            So instead of casting on 44 st, cast on 22

In some cases you will want to round up or down. For increases and decreases, look at the end of the piece and spread out increases or decreases to get to the correct amount.  Fairly easy on this tiny garment, a little trickier on large ones.

 

Finished size (Just one size)  width of back 5.5”, length  4.5”, sleeve 3.0”  (can be rolled up to make a  little cuff) 

Here are the DAK schematics for the pattern:

 

            (make one, reverse one)

This is a Designaknit produced pattern.  How to read:

The format is Row # --Decrease or increase so many stitches --every so many rows --So many times.

Example:  On the front, on row 28, decrease one stitch every two rows twice, so you decrease one stitch on row 28, knit 2 rows and decrease again one stitch on row 30.  If it helps, you can write down the in-between row decreases.

Hints – Unfortunately there are a lot of ends to work in.  You can either wait until finishing and work them in or try to weave them in as you go by hanging the end over every other needle before you knit the row.  You can also save some ends by leaving a long one at the bottom of the piece to seam with.  RC stands for row count.

FF means full fashioned.  This is why the front edges don’t roll.  To decrease, move the 4^th stitch from the edge to the 3^rd, the move all 3 stitches in to fill the empty needle.  To increase, move 3 stitches out one needle, then take the purl bump on an adjacent stitch and hang it on the empty needle so that there is no hole.

DIRECTIONS IN WORDS

*****For all pieces, do the 4 row rolled hem at a tighter tension (T3) then change to T7 and RC000 to start the schematic.*****

Back

With waste yarn, cast on 44 stitches.  Knit several rows at looser tension.

With main yarn ewrap left to right.  Change to T 3.  Knit 4 rows (might be a little tight). 

RC 000 Change to T 7 and knit to RC  29.  Bind off 3 stitches,  knit one row.

On row 30 bind off 3 stitches.  Knit to RC 54.  Take off these stitches in 3 parts. Put all stitches in hold, machine to hold.

For the first shoulder take off 12 stitches on several rows of waste yarn.  Remove from machine.

Bind off the next 30 stitches, decreasing one stitch on the 10^th and 20^th needle. Remove from machine.

Take machine off hold and take off the last 12 stitches on several rows of waste yarn.  Remove from machine.

 

Fronts:  Make one and reverse one.

With waste yarn, cast on 42 stitches.  Knit several rows at looser tension.

With main yarn ewrap left to right.  Change to T 3.  Knit 4 rows (might be a little tight). 

RC 000 Change to T 7 and follow the schematics using full fashioned decreases.  On row 30 for right side and 29 for left side (next to carriage) bind off 3 stitches and continue with the other side ff decreases. Knit to RC 54 and take the 12 st off on waste yarn.

Sleeves

With waste yarn, cast on 28 stitches.  Knit several rows at looser tension.

With main yarn ewrap left to right.  Change to T 3.  Knit 4 rows (might be a little tight). 

RC 000 Change to T 7 and knit to RC  17. Increase ff  one stitch both sides.  Knit to RC 34.  Increase ff one stitch both sides.  You now have 32 stitches.  Knit to RC 35 and take off on several rows of waste yarn.

Finishing

Join the shoulder stitches.  Put your carriage on the left.  With the right side of the back piece facing you, hang one set of 12 shoulder stitches.  With the wrong side of one matching front, hang the 12 shoulder stitches. Pull  the needles out and push the knitting to the back so that the stitches knit off properly.  Knit one row and bind off.  (I like to bind off around gate pegs to get the bind offs even.)

Do the same for the other shoulder.

Join the sleeves.  Put your carriage on the left.  With the right side of one sleeve facing you, hang the 32 stitches.  If you hang 16 on the left of zero and 16 on the right, it’s easier to get the seam to come out right.  This is a little tricky.  With the wrong side of the sweater facing you, hang the shoulder seam at zero.  With a 3 prong tool to measure out nicely, pick up  whole stitches from the body.  Skip a stitch of the garment and hang the next 3 stitches.  Try really hard to stick your tool in the same ditch every time.   Looks wonky if you don’t.                                                             

Continue picking up until all sleeve stitches have been attached to the body.  Now take a ruler and measure from the bottom of the sweater to the underarm.  Over on the other side, begin hanging stitches at the same place so that the front and back are not off kilter.  Fill in the stitches until all sleeve stitches are loaded up.

Pull all needles out and push knitting back so that the stitches knit off properly.  Knit one row left to right and bind off.

Do the same on the other side.

TIES  -  You need 4

Pick up 3 stitches at a corner of the garment.  Hang a wt on the garment.  At T 6 Knit 60 rows.  If you want to knit an I cord, push in one part button and knit 120 rows.  Just knitting the tie plain causes it to roll and it’s not too distinguishable from an I cord and goes faster.  Bind off by putting the two outer stitches on the center, cut the yarn and pull through to bind off/ fasten off.

Make 3 more , one at each corner.

SEAM

Mattress stitch the sides and the sleeves.  Run in yarn ends. Wash in detergent that doesn’t have perfume.

Steam a little if you think it’s necessary.

Donate to your favorite hospital or charity.  Might want to put your donation in a plastic bag to keep it clean.

 

Now I need to come up with a quick boys' pattern.