Tuck Stitch Cowl

Made a cowl using a built-in tuck stitch on my Brother 970 standard gauge machine. It could be made on other machines too, nothing special about that. It's knit flat then seamed. You can see the seam down the middle of the picture. It measures 29" wide x 10" long. Of that 10" there is an inch of 1 x 1 rib on both ends. This was a mill end wool yarn, probably lace weight. Thinner than sport or dk for sure. Then I ran a strand of variegated yarn along with it. The texture is interesting on one side because you can see the zig zags. And on the back side, the variegated yarn showed up much more, as though it were plaited, which it isn't. So, a person could wear either side out.

I'd take a picture of it on my person, but whenever I try to take one in the bathroom mirror, all I get is the flash. Don't know how to turn off the flash on this little Canon Powershot I have in my knitting room. But, it fits and looks nice kind of slouching around my neck. It's surprising how warm a person feels when a person's neck is toasty.

It wouldn't do much good to tell you my stitches and rows, since this is mystery yarn. But you could do a swatch and come up with the 29" x 10". The cast on and bind off look pretty similar. I used the circular cast on in the ribber manual. For the bind off, while still doing 1 x 1 rib, I knit one loose row, as loose as the dial would go. Then I transferred the ribber stitches to the main bed and chained off from right to left. Maybe because the pattern is so busy it helps Camouflage the stitches. Really easy to make, that's for sure.

Haven't made a dent

...in this gray cone of yarn. Two six foot long scarves, triple stranded, hasn't done it. I got the double bed tuck pattern from Diana Sullivan's blog: http://diananatters.blogspot.com/
wishing I had prettier yarn to show it off. I used a tight tension on the standard gauge machine so it didn't come out as lacy as hers. The left side would probably be considered the public side and the right side the back. Doesn't really matter. It's nice and squishy. If you stretch it out a bit, you can see the tuck pattern better.
After a gazillion rows, nice smooth non-rolling edges, no dropped stitches and no mispatterning. That's a very good thing. It will keep someone warm next winter.

More Ribber Love

By sheer force of will, I have made myself use my ribbers over the last several months. And now, I have to say I do love them. Everyone said it would happen and it did. I'm trying to get rid of excess yarn, so cone by cone it is disappearing with charity scarves. They're great projects---like long swatches to practice different techniques, stitches and patterns---that become useful items.
Here's the latest, a racked scarf:
The yarn is 3 strands of some thin, unknown fiber content. One of those impulse mill end purchases. Nice color and softness, though. On my standard machine, I did a full needle rib cast on (check your manual) then transferred stitches so that I had every other needle on the ribber. (Every other ribber stitch got transferred to the main bed which still has all needles in work.) I did 59 stitches because I have a nifty 60 stitch ribber comb. End needles on the main bed. After the cast on, I set the row counter to 000, T 3/3. Starting with H5 knit 5 rows, racked to H3 and knit 5 rows. Repeated these 10 rows to RC 550 (or so). Knit one row at the loosest tension. Cut main yarn. Then I set the carriages for circular knitting and knit 20 rows with waste yarn. To cast off, I folded back the waste yarn, found the very end stitch on the side opposite the yarn tail. With the latch tool, chained off going back and forth from front to back to front to back. Pulled the yarn tail through the last stitch. When you run in the two yarn tails, you are DONE! No blocking necessary. Lies perfectly flat. Has body, is nice and squishy. I like it.
I've tried racking before and found that it required tons of concentration or I'd get lost as to which direction to go with the racking handle after a while or when interrupted. This was easier in that when the row was 1-5 I was going with H 5 and when the row was 6-10 I was using H3. (Or the other way around, doesn't matter, as long as you are consistent from the get go.)
The scarf ended up to be 9" wide and 60" long. Kind of neutral in that it could be masculine or feminine, methinks. 550 yards x 3 strands....1650 yards? or is it really 550. I think I'll go with 550 since it's "yards knit".

Tuck Baby Blanket on the Brother KX 350 Midgauge Machine

Boy, have I been a lousy blogger. I've been knitting, but not good about getting pictures up here and describing things. So, I thought it was time to breathe a little life back into the ol' blog. This is a baby blanket I've done for charity. A friend gave me this hot pink cotton yarn and it goes nicely as a baby blanket. Our guild gives blankets to Project Linus so I chose to knit it at our guild's knit-in last Saturday. People usually bring their plastic bed machines because they are easy to transport. I used my Brother KX 350, a 7 mm midgauge, which is totally manual.

Here's how I made it if you care to do one yourself. It could be made on any machine using your own measurements and yarn. If you also have a midgauge you could use this needle arrangement. Otherwise, do a little math to make the repeat come out right for your needle bed.
Ewrap 129 stitches and knit 6 rows to make the end plain. Use a lot of weight on your work. Mark the needle bed with a pencil using X's for the red and o's for the orange. (See the diagram below.) What you do is mark O's on the 5th needle slot then every 8th across the bed ending with 4 needle slots on the right side. Now mark X's starting with the 9th needle slot, then every 8th across the bed, ending with 9 slots on the right side.
*Set your machine to hold going both directions. Pull the needles marked with O's all the way out toward you. Those are the stitches that will tuck. Knit 5 rows. Take the carriage setting off hold so that the next row all stitches will knit off. Knit 1 row. Now pull out the needles marked with X's. Change your carriage to hold both directions again. Knit 5 rows. Take the carriage setting off hold so that the next row all stitches will knit off. Knit one row.* Repeat this 12 row repeat, from * to * for the desired length. You kind of get into a rhythm. Tuck spreads out wider than stockinette, but it also takes more rows to get the length. I wanted a square baby blanket, so when I thought it was about the right length, I measured by bringing up the lower right corner to the upper left. Once it made a triangle, I pretty much had a square. (Trick learned from a guild friend.) Then knit 6 rows plain and bind off.

Your repeat would look like this with the sides plain. (Hope that makes sense.)
It makes a honey comb kind of pattern when the tucks are alternating.

The edges decided they wanted to curl, so I found it necessary to do some crocheting around it. I did two rows of single crochet and to make the ruffle did 3 double crochets in each stitch around. Whew! That took longer than it did to make the blanket. I have a new found respect and appreciation for my other machines after doing all that hand pulling of stitches. Turned out nice, though.

Jester Feet!

I made some toasty felted slippers for myself. They turned out well, I thought.
This is where I found the pattern.
http://hurpeknagg.blogspot.com/2008/01/felted-slippers.html
Thank heavens she did a color coded chart or I would never have been able to put them together---must have a spacial orientation problem. The pattern is for hand knitting, but I did them in a flash on the machine. Sewing them up took a little longer. In order to sew the right square to the correct match, I hand sewed yarn markers where the colored dots were and butted up the matching pieces. It was a leap of faith for a while there. I'm amazed when people come up with clever things like this.

I used Lion Brand Wool, two skeins. One black and one purple. It's considered medium worsted, three ounces is 158 yards. I used my midgauge machine and at T 10. was able to get squares with 22 stitches x 30 rows to fit my size 9 feet. If you wanted smaller or larger slippers, since felting is so unpredictable, you'd have to make some guesses. In case you are wondering, I did a random pattern with the two colors and didn't care if the two feet matched.

Since we are still in the throes of winter, these are coming in handy!

Heart Skirt and Shrug for American Girl Doll

On a roll! Now have 3 outfits done. Probably have said this before, but it sure is fun to make these little outfits because they go so fast. And, have I said how much I love red??? I'm guessing these two pieces add 200 yards to my running total. It's really hard to calculate, but I think/ hope I'm underestimating rather than overestimating.



I think she needs a Norwegian sweater next...

And Capri Pants to Match

I tried the Knitware pattern for 18" dolls, but somehow it didn't work. So, I borrowed what I could and came up with these this morning. Too lazy to fire up the camera so just stuck it on the scanner. But you can see in the pic that follows that they fit. Here's how I made them:
MACHINE midgauge 6.5mm
YARN worsted (I think more medium than heavy)
GAUGE 4 st x 6 rows = 1" at T 10
FINISHED SIZE Length 8.5", width 6.5" at hips (x 2=13" around after seaming)
KWK means knit, wrap the end stitch, knit back
Increases - move 3 stitches out one needle and pick up the heel of the inside stitch and hang on to the empty needle.
Decreases - move the end stitch in one needle.
Start at the cuff and knit to waistband.
Knit 2:
Cast on over 26 stitches with main yarn. At T 3 knit 4 rows. Change to T 10, knit 4 rows. Hang a hem. RC 000. Increase one stitch both sides, knit one row. Increase one stitch both sides every 3 rows to 40 stitches. Knit to RC 28. Shape crotch. Bind off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next two rows. Decrease 1 stitch both sides, knit two rows 2 x. (26 stitches) First leg, CAL. Second leg, CAR. Short row for the rear end. Set machine to hold. Put 13 needles on the right (left for other leg) on hold. KWK. Put 4 stitches to hold, KWK 2 times. Take machine off hold. Knit to RC 44. On RC 44 run a length of contrasting thread so you can see which stitch to hang later for the hem. Change to T 4 and knit 11 rows. CAL. Hang hem. Knit one row left to right and bind off around the gate pegs with the latch tool. Seam the back from top to crotch. Seam the front top to crotch leaving openings both sides on the front of the waist band for the I cord to slip through. (Make sure the short rowed butt is the back side.) Seam the legs both sides. Remove the marker thread.
Make a 3 stitch I cord at T 3, long enough to go around the waist, tie knots on the ends and tie a bow. (Sorry, I forgot to record how many rows, but you can measure while on the machine.) Hide the ends of the Icord inside the cord. Run the I cord through the waste band. Steam the pants a little if desired.

There always seems to be a "if I were to do these again" sentence.... I'd make them a little shorter (-6rows) and a little tighter (T 9 instead of T10). They're a little loose, but they look ok. One more outfit done for the sil.