Thursday, August 27, 2015

Free Machine Knit Lace Shawl



 

I knit this shawl for my sister.  Her favorite color is blue, so I dyed some pink and tan mystery, slubby yarn and this is how it turned out.  The pattern is pretty easy so I'd encourage you to give lace knitting a try if you haven't already done so.

Shawl for Kaky  ©2010   by Mar Heck

 

You can use any lace pattern that either is built into your machine or is on a punch card.  This one is in the Stitchworld III for the Brother 970.  (See end of pattern)  Use a yarn that has some stretch to make the lace transfers go nicely.  I always try out a few different ones to see which I like best and which behave well.


Directions:  (The shawl is knit from the narrow point to the other narrow point)

 

Main part:

  1.  Permanent cast on 4 stitches at or near the far left of the machine bed. (Some machines don’t like being on the very farthest needle, especially if you have swapped it out.)  Hang a claw weight, knit 2 rows.  Use a tension appropriate to your yarn.
  2. Set up the lace pattern according to directions in your manual for your particular machine.  Add weights as the piece progresses.  Since you are knitting sideways, the lace likes to be evenly weighted.
  3. Do the lace carriage passes. Increase one stitch on the right side by pulling out a new needle. Knit 2 rows with main carriage according to the pattern.  Continue this step until desired length from mid back to bottom point is reached.  Remember that you can’t have a needle in E position when running the lace carriage or you will break needles!!! So only pull out the new needle right before the knit-2 rows,
  4. When you reach the desired length, start the decreases.  Decrease one stitch  on the right side by placing the far right stitch onto its neighbor to the left. Do the lace carriage passes. Knit 2 rows with main carriage according to the pattern.  Continue this step until you are back to 4 stitches. Stop the lace knitting. Knit 2 rows.  Bind off

Edging:

(Add this to the two bottom edges or all 3) Use a tension slightly tighter than you've been using for the main part.

With wrong side facing you and starting at the middle of the machine, pick up 3 stitches (whole stitches, not loops) from the shawl at a corner.  Knit 12-20 rows.  Count out 4 stitches of the shawl (could use your thumb as a measuring tool) and hang 3 stitches from the shawl on top of those in work forming a loop .  Repeat knitting the cord and picking up the 3 stitches.  Do an extra loop at the bottom point.   When you reach the end, bind off.  

Try a practice run to see if you like the size of the loops and the distance between the places where you attach.  Adjust to your liking. You could make the loops with I cord, but this is faster and the knitting rolls onto itself looking like I cord anyway.


 

 

Once you get the correct amount of weight and get into a rhythm, this is a super simple pattern.  JUST THINK HOW LONG THIS WOULD TAKE TO KNIT BY HAND!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 I wouldn’t have the patience.
PS If you don't have a Brother machine, you'd have to consult your manual for directions but you should be able to use this basic idea.
PPS  If you want, you can use life-lines now and then to save ripping out the entire thing.  Take a contrasting colored yarn and weave it through the stitches on the machine at a point where you have completed the knit-2 sequence.  Do each stitch in the same direction make hanging the stitches easier if the need arises.  Write down the row number and position of the shawl on the needle bed.  Proceed with the knitting.  If you have to rip out, you only have to rip out to your life line.  Reset the machine for the correct row, hang on the proper needles and off you go again.  You can do this every 100 rows or so and use different colored yarn for each life line to keep track.  There's some kind of Murphy's Law that if you use life lines, you won't need them, but if you don't use life lines.... well, you get the idea.

 

13 comments:

  1. Thank you so much. I am going to try this.
    B

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  2. You're welcome. Hope it turns out for you!

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  3. Oh my! That was awesome! Thanks for posting. These are great instructions. I hope I can make one :)

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  4. What a gorgeous and delicate shawl! Love it!

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  5. I sooo wish you were right about Murphy. I put in life lines, and I sure use them!

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  6. Hi,
    So, when decreasing, we need to change the lace carriage to the main carriage each time? Could I not just put the lace carriage setting to plain knitting instead?

    thank you

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  7. I just do decreases and if the needles are in b position after the decrease. there is no problem.

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  8. I so want to try this shawl - but can you advise s rough estimate of yarn required please? Many thsnks.
    Pauline Sanders

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  9. Pauline--I can't remember exactly because it was a long time ago and I rewound the yarn to dye it.BUT I am sure it was less than a typical cones-worth. Lace patterns take less yarn than stockinette. Mar

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  10. I made this, but I started on the far right side, because, if I had started on the left, then I was always pulling across a full width of yarn, which I then had to manually hold or pull back for the tension.
    I also learned a valuable lesson in that, the lace carriage must always pass the centre of the machine bed on each pass, even though you only have a very few needles in work.

    The shawl turned out lovely though. I finished the edges with the "Fairy Godmother" lace pattern from Diana Sullivan's "Enchanted Edgings".
    Between the lace pattern in the main body of the shawl, and the edging, it was ALOT of passes....almost 9000

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  11. Ben, I am confused by your need to start on the right side, but whatever, it worked! Yes a lot of passes. I have Diana's lace edgings too and like them a lot.
    Mar

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