tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-58502105782703202562024-03-13T09:40:34.725-05:00Marzipanknitsmachine knitting midgauge standard bulky machknit knit machine-knit patternsMarhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14554632020726020481noreply@blogger.comBlogger278125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5850210578270320256.post-82744042251709256522023-03-17T12:46:00.000-05:002023-03-17T12:46:34.865-05:00The Evil Static Monster Strikes Again<p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Long post----ignore if you don't have a static problem.</span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;">In my last post I mentioned that I was having a little static issue. And if you look carefully at the doggie sweater you can see some pattern errors. Well, the problem got worse and worse. None of the tactics I have always used and that always worked before fixed the problem. Thinking I was the anti-static queen, years ago I did a post that listed several strategies should your machine become infected. I should mention that I recommended an anti-static wrist band that people who work on computers use. I have since been told that wearing one was worse than useless and would turn you and the machine into a Frankenstein crazy static loop. However, the other suggestions were useful if your static issue isn't super horrible.</span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;">So, I doubled down doing all the things I have done in the past. Even bought a new sponge bar, thinking the old was causing my issue. Then I thought the pattern I downloaded to my 970 was faulty or Gasp! the 970 was dying. Looked at a lot of Youtube videos o the subject, but none exactly fit my particular situation.</span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;">I wrote to Michael Becker of Distinctive Knits because he has helped me with other things in the past. He recommended I construct a grounding cable and connect the machine with it to the grounding part of an electrical wall outlet. I replied that I was unreasonably proud of myself when I can successfully change a lightbulb. No way could I construct one.</span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Then a machine knitter, Sherry, contacted me about the Doing DAK book I had written. I told Sherry about the problem I was having and what Michael Becker recommended. And coincidentally she is super knowledgeable about electricity. She found a ready-made grounding cable for me on Amazon!!! This is what I purchased. The same company sells a cheaper one that is 8 ft long, but I figured the longer one would work better for my set-up.</span></p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmECQ42vq6VlUv8wFXD0kl2Eg7H-aMncp6cejI3g-WhnIVZk4iqHMkOxZlr4L-lBZE-tEQtpmh8MPl1AksUFyTTbSB71fKVp_gBfR7kIROdJQu4EDlZEE0NaIC7YZlFVWdM5Stw8kb8wfZ7I6r-ert-LmCBiZFkmVdWb6LPvBjpHJy0FvUtHpKdgQT/s1082/groundingcable.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="298" data-original-width="1082" height="176" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmECQ42vq6VlUv8wFXD0kl2Eg7H-aMncp6cejI3g-WhnIVZk4iqHMkOxZlr4L-lBZE-tEQtpmh8MPl1AksUFyTTbSB71fKVp_gBfR7kIROdJQu4EDlZEE0NaIC7YZlFVWdM5Stw8kb8wfZ7I6r-ert-LmCBiZFkmVdWb6LPvBjpHJy0FvUtHpKdgQT/w640-h176/groundingcable.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;">So simple to use. First you push the pointy end into the alligator clip, attach the clip to the mast of your machine, then plug the other end into the wall outlet so that it is grounded. Voila!!! It works and no more mispatterning. Easier than changing a lightbulb almost. I still spray my yarn with Lori Lynn Yarn spray and use dryer sheets, but my problem seems to be fixed primarily by this cable. I have since knit several swatches with and without the ribber with NO PROBLEMS. </span></div><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Sherry and I have become email friends, which is really fun, and she is in the process of making these cables for the members of her machine knitting club. Serandipity that this worked out the way it did and I am super grateful to her for researching cables to get me the best one for the knitting machine.</span></p><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p></p>Marhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14554632020726020481noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5850210578270320256.post-77772364914151590732023-01-05T15:55:00.001-06:002023-01-05T16:11:06.424-06:00New Year New Dog New Sweater<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw8AEm0r7SIQsdKCqQaskoCfJpOx60ENP3yJMfQN5rOXMaEjpoPthjBf1WoO6wNy5gJOJMTobp-i98UsCYzcRCbuZunq5YmQeZu82yHwNK_CYXr2Ju2yJ2RtSGvAVehY5UHZo_7zNGAmB8Le2lSllVvqOjAcorQ0fUeCUupnt-feT6WazoQF7apjIf/s587/yogs%20in%20new%20coat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="398" data-original-width="587" height="434" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw8AEm0r7SIQsdKCqQaskoCfJpOx60ENP3yJMfQN5rOXMaEjpoPthjBf1WoO6wNy5gJOJMTobp-i98UsCYzcRCbuZunq5YmQeZu82yHwNK_CYXr2Ju2yJ2RtSGvAVehY5UHZo_7zNGAmB8Le2lSllVvqOjAcorQ0fUeCUupnt-feT6WazoQF7apjIf/w640-h434/yogs%20in%20new%20coat.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>This is Yogi. He is a BichonFrise/poodle mix. He is not green or blue around the eyes, but my camera thinks he is. Weird. He just got a haircut so is cold without his shaggy long coat. I'm trying to perfect the right size for the sweater. One I made last summer was too big, so I'm trying again. This one is snug but he doesn't seem to mind. Am going to adjust and try again. After all, a guy can't have too many sweaters. Seems kind of sissy, but he honestly needs a little help. My husband would have said, "That's not a real dog!" However, he is here to stay, we just got dumped upon with 15 inches of snow...and he can barely navigate through it.<p></p><p>If you also have about a 15 lb doggie who could use a sweater, here's how I made this one. This is the DAK design for the sweater back. You certainly could knit it plain, do stripes, design your own instead.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFLw9xxsnXcXnTdcOK8bThX7F44MuYq7wr2368MAqExYfT-qt_niyBW-mbjysyaGR-fWHv9VS2jsdg8ibsSq8v7CT0XZiN7QCprOEWu_qafx3x7nFjwA7wPlpIh9JYatNfXXdv_sc1KrBuxCJ7C61Xr1_uwu90B1svAjliP_ADdO7OEP_CXyBFOwa-/s571/stith%20pattern%20yog.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="497" data-original-width="571" height="558" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFLw9xxsnXcXnTdcOK8bThX7F44MuYq7wr2368MAqExYfT-qt_niyBW-mbjysyaGR-fWHv9VS2jsdg8ibsSq8v7CT0XZiN7QCprOEWu_qafx3x7nFjwA7wPlpIh9JYatNfXXdv_sc1KrBuxCJ7C61Xr1_uwu90B1svAjliP_ADdO7OEP_CXyBFOwa-/w640-h558/stith%20pattern%20yog.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>My tension with some sport weight Tamm yarns was 7 stitches and 8 rows to one inch @T10 on my 970 standard Brother machine. I centered the DAK .stp design on the needle bed and only used 84 stitches and 96 rows of it. If you need more stitches and rows, they are there for you. If you would like the DAK design, write to me and I will email it to you.</p><p>Below are schematics, very not to scale.</p><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjidxnXHkXSsy7fj4meyH3KFtqBnkWY6j0VgkWDt6eFFE-arwzahmwdWrkWXiLE9PFVtCNjS1NBVDz4RYe1NbH7OBmHIlZuAoDtEy1L28j6V-mmwHQWKtEBpnBq3_ulsnALOZc47qtgwtHlcXmGJG31oY_kXOC8Fa6XHWLcuRe2evNuxuMK9OiiFmOv/s701/schematic%20back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="573" data-original-width="701" height="524" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjidxnXHkXSsy7fj4meyH3KFtqBnkWY6j0VgkWDt6eFFE-arwzahmwdWrkWXiLE9PFVtCNjS1NBVDz4RYe1NbH7OBmHIlZuAoDtEy1L28j6V-mmwHQWKtEBpnBq3_ulsnALOZc47qtgwtHlcXmGJG31oY_kXOC8Fa6XHWLcuRe2evNuxuMK9OiiFmOv/w640-h524/schematic%20back.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgetns-NJQHFeVCrSp_4kGmw6z_XwIK7Ak4Q2wg2EKLPmN_sv79SgYbJQnUslVjN03khYzhztjTWScY1QX-toamVOz2hMSdg4XnRPveborIOMwf_5MlekUPwcjxYicqwC5PwmBcQuh6NPpclBHxEoqRY7nSfGg75ALeecOSN52utqca-oQBqbEdTczU/s805/schematic%20underbelly.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="704" data-original-width="805" height="560" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgetns-NJQHFeVCrSp_4kGmw6z_XwIK7Ak4Q2wg2EKLPmN_sv79SgYbJQnUslVjN03khYzhztjTWScY1QX-toamVOz2hMSdg4XnRPveborIOMwf_5MlekUPwcjxYicqwC5PwmBcQuh6NPpclBHxEoqRY7nSfGg75ALeecOSN52utqca-oQBqbEdTczU/w640-h560/schematic%20underbelly.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p><i>DAK notation--at row#, decrease or increase #stitches every so many rows, #times.</i></p><p><i>Example--at row 5, decrease 1 stitch (both sides) every 5 rows twice (on row5 and 10)</i></p><p>HEMS-bottoms of pieces, use waste yarn and knit some rows. 1 r ravel cord. Insert main yarn, at tension 6 knit 12 rows, at tension 10 knit one row, at tension 8 knit 12 rows. Pick up stitches across above waste and hang onto row in work. Use design until top hem. I didn't put a design on the underbelly piece.</p><p>For hems on tops of pieces use ravel cord to mark the row you want to hang up. Reverse the tensions. First T8, 1 r T10, last T6. Hang stiches and bind off with your favorite method.</p><p>My fractions of an inch are not exact, but it shouldn't matter. One hint to make the thing fit better in the armholes is to poof out the back area a little more than the underbellypiece. Otherwise I think it's pretty straight-forward as to how to sew the pieces together.</p><p> As I was knitting this, I had all sorts of problems that I usually do not have. There were dropped stitches and mispatterning. My aged mind finally figured out that I needed a new sponge bar. I had a spare that I inserted but it too was not in perfect shape. Since it was a tad better I was able to finish the thing but there were still some pattern errors. (don't look too closely.) Right away I ordered a new one from Cindy's Knitting Room in Princeton, MN. I wanted to mention her business because she is so nice, prompt, fair and reasonably priced. </p><p>Write to me if I haven't explained very well.</p><br />Marhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14554632020726020481noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5850210578270320256.post-70145736508227069772022-12-12T12:22:00.000-06:002022-12-12T12:22:10.412-06:00Patchwork Satchel ©marheck2022<p> On a roll now. A felting project for you.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shapetype id="_x0000_t75" coordsize="21600,21600"
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</v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4c1CUKjk_02zcieZH8D0trodeqHnIi0fnY35kJzlRPA7ItmN6l-7Zshz4wofX1pa647FSD1sZ6Rn0JdeEfqiLJydgG1eAZ9x87jHWfL0N8dD0tAs6DTZ3oREj1BLDcYLzcm3LE6VMzZ5N5K4DrFmIbRpl0bT2NTqWA5MRFxKFvJQIvIwSNUIqkBfM/s671/DSC_03340001%20copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="671" data-original-width="663" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4c1CUKjk_02zcieZH8D0trodeqHnIi0fnY35kJzlRPA7ItmN6l-7Zshz4wofX1pa647FSD1sZ6Rn0JdeEfqiLJydgG1eAZ9x87jHWfL0N8dD0tAs6DTZ3oREj1BLDcYLzcm3LE6VMzZ5N5K4DrFmIbRpl0bT2NTqWA5MRFxKFvJQIvIwSNUIqkBfM/w632-h640/DSC_03340001%20copy.jpg" width="632" /></a><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">This purse/tote/satchel is easy to
make and is sturdy. It can be knit on any
gauge machine, but a midgauge or bulky machine is preferable; a midgauge was
used for the sample.<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<p class="MsoNormal"><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">In
selecting yarns, be sure the yarns are 100% wool, not superwash or treated to
be washable and dryable. It’s best to
use the same brand for all of the colors.
Even so, the colors will likely felt at <br />different rates.<o:p></o:p></span></i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">I
chose saturated colors that are considered to be “jewel tones”. You may prefer earth tones or pastels. It’s a good idea to put the colors together
and study them a bit, perhaps removing some and adding others as you study the
composition. You could also knit with
just two colors for a checkerboard effect.<o:p></o:p></span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">The
purse is constructed so that you attach pieces as you knit. This eliminates seams. <o:p></o:p></span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">This
is a good project to use up small amounts of yarn in your stash.<o:p></o:p></span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">The
knitting level is approximately at an advanced beginner level. Some sewing skills are required.<o:p></o:p></span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">I
lined the bag for extra body, but this is optional. <span style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></i></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></i></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">MACHINE Pattern
is written for the midgauge but a bulky machine would work as well since the
science of felting is not so exact anyway .<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">YARN I used
Paton’s Merino wool- a medium worsted
weight. I used small amounts of 16
different colors, 2 skeins of the colors used for the hems and straps. You could successfully use less colors and
place them randomly. If you are using up
yarn from your stash, improvise as far as how much of any one color to use. You can also use a thinner yarn and double it
to approximate the medium worsted weight, but do this throughout, not for just
selected patches.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">GAUGE Before
felting, 4 stitches and 5 rows = 1 inch.
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">FINISHED SIZE
14” high by 20 inches wide;
depending on how your yarn felts, it may vary some from this size.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">OTHER MATERIALS
five ¾ inch beads for decoration and closure, ¾ yard coordinating lining
material, small amount of interfacing for inner pocket, matching sewing thread,
large- eyed sewing needle and sewing machine.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">KNITTING NOTES<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="text-align: left; text-indent: -0.25in;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; line-height: 115%;">·<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;"> As stated above, this pattern provides <u>directions
for a midgauge machine</u>. You can
modify for the machine you are using.
That is, if using a bulky, you could multiply stitches and rows by 80%
or so, or knit it the same as the directions for a slightly larger bag. If
using a standard gauge machine, I would multiply the stitches and rows x 140%. Always use the highest tension (loosest) for
best felting, regardless of which machine you are using.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="text-align: left; text-indent: -0.25in;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; line-height: 115%;">·<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;"> It’s a good idea to do a <u>tension swatch</u>
to see what you need to do for each patch. You may want to adjust the size of
the squares. I was aiming for square
patches, but mine came out a little on the rectangular side. Even though I did do a swatch, the knitting
tends to shrink more in length than it does in width. If you’re ok with this, follow the
directions as written. If you want
squares, add a few rows to each patch to compensate for the extra shrinkage in
length.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="text-align: left; text-indent: -0.25in;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; line-height: 115%;">·<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">Examine
the edge of the knitting. You want to be
able to identify the loops. The knitting
will have a loop and on top of that a knot.
You will hang the loops to attach one strip or piece to the next.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="text-align: left; text-indent: -0.25in;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; line-height: 115%;">·<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">It’s
not a bad idea to draw yourself a chart on paper and decide color placement
ahead of time.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal">
</p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">DIRECTIONS</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><b><u><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">Straps</span></u></b><u><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;"> </span></u><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;"> Knit 2 the same</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">T 10.(loosest throughout) Ewrap 18 needles, knit 120 rows. Bind off loosely. (This size makes a comfortable shoulder
strap.) Fold in half and stitch shut </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;">with a mattress stitch.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;">Two layers makes
it stronger.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b><u><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">Patchwork
strips to make the rectangular sides</span></u></b><u><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;"> </span></u><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">- Make two sides <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">Strip one: Cast
on with waste yarn over 20 stitches, T 10. and knit a few rows. RC 000. With main yarn, E wrap on and knit to
RC 24. Drop color one and knit 24 rows
of color two. Drop color two and knit 24
rows of color three. Drop color three
and knit 24 rows of color four. (RC
96) Take strip off on a few rows of waste
yarn. Tie yarn ends together so they
don’t unravel.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">Strip two: Cast
on with waste yarn over 20 stitches, T 10. and knit a few rows. RC 000.
Ewrap on with main yarn. With the
wrong side of strip #one facing you, hang the first loop on the left
needle. With new color main yarn, knit
2 rows. Pick up the next loop from the
completed strip, hang it on the left most needle, knit 2 rows. When you have reached 24 rows of the new
patch, change colors and proceed in the same manner until you reach the top and
have added 4 patches. (RC 96) Take off on a few rows of waste yarn. Try to
make the colors come out so that they line up across from each other. Fudge if you have to, but if you are picking
up loops, not knots, it should come out right.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">Strips three and four:
Knit in the same manner as you did strip two.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">Tie yarn ends together so they don’t unravel. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">Make the second rectangle the same as the first. Hide
yarn ends. Remove waste yarn from the
bottom of the bag.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b><u><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">SIDE
GUSSETS</span></u></b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
</p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">These are knit while hanging the bottoms and sides at
the same time. (See drawing below.)<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;"> </span></p></div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">Cast on with waste yarn over 24 stitches, knit a few
rows T 10. Change to main yarn, knit one
row. ( I knit the bottom of the gusset
in one color and the sides of the gussets in a second color, but you can use
just one color.)<o:p></o:p></span></p><p>
</p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">With the wrong side of rectangle #one facing you, find
the exact center of the bottom and hang that stitch on the leftmost
needle. With the wrong side of rectangle
#two facing you, find the exact center of the bottom and hang that stitch on
the rightmost needle. Knit two rows. When you get to the corner, knit 3 rows
before hanging rectangle stitches. (This
helps the gusset go more smoothly around the corner.) Check frequently that you are in the same
place on both sides. If you get off
track, it’s best to redo or the bag will bias.
When you have knit the gusset and joined all the way to the top, take
off on waste yarn. Turn the piece
around, pick up the bottom stitches from the waste yarn and knit in the other
direction. Difficult to explain, but
it’s not hard to do. When done knitting
the second gusset, remove waste yarn.<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOBJL9rzVfE6VauKfS1nAW3dXMKUDt0jCnHmNmxSvCOZUj0V3rRDLhTXAnaayZGRakoV3j-mOfTPf91IcJOmaUY8iDalL67fgxKp5qLzDYE_VCVEIuvL_bPXB6_unBlh2QFrjc8-MRxd6yCg7zhW8BP-KM82LEjT-oGrFZPfjfZRCFu5V6bgbKYyJm/s657/Untitled.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="559" data-original-width="657" height="525" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOBJL9rzVfE6VauKfS1nAW3dXMKUDt0jCnHmNmxSvCOZUj0V3rRDLhTXAnaayZGRakoV3j-mOfTPf91IcJOmaUY8iDalL67fgxKp5qLzDYE_VCVEIuvL_bPXB6_unBlh2QFrjc8-MRxd6yCg7zhW8BP-KM82LEjT-oGrFZPfjfZRCFu5V6bgbKYyJm/w640-h525/Untitled.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b><u><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">TOP
HEM<o:p></o:p></span></u></b></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">You should have 100 stitches on each side of the bag
--- 80 from the rectangle, 10 for half of the gusset on both sides. Hang
one half of the bag stitches, wrong side facing you, decreasing evenly
across to 80 stitches. With main yarn,
knit 13 rows. Pick up and hang first row
to make hem. Knit one row by hand left
to right and bind off loosely. Repeat for the other side of the bag.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b><u><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;"> </span></u></b></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b><u><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">I
CORDS <o:p></o:p></span></u></b></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><u><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">Side ties</span></u><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">: Set machine to slip one way, knit the other
to make I cords. Knit a 4 stitch I cord,
changing colors as desired to RC 220. Bind off by placing the outer stitches on
the center stitch and binding off the two remaining stitches. Make two the
same.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><u><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">Front closure</span></u><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">: Knit one four stitch I cord 80 rows
long. Bind off as above.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;"><u><span style="line-height: 115%;">Short I cord decorations</span></u><span style="line-height: 115%;">: With
the wrong side of one side facing you, fold down the hem toward you. Pick up 3 stitches from the right side, 2 ½
inches from the edge and immediately under the hem. Set machine to slip one way, knit the other
to make 3 stitch I cords. Knit 40
rows. Bind off as above to one
stitch. Repeat across the bag,
staggering the I cords every 4 stitches or so and changing colors and lengths
at random. My I cords were 20, 30, 40
and 50 rows long using all the colors in the bag, one to each I cord. Leave a 2 ½ inch space when </span></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;">you reach the end. </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;">With a large-eyed embroidery needle, hide yarn
ends by sewing up into the tube and snipping.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">Repeat on the other side of the bag.<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal">
</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLvdjqeIQpTDtSn7AO4obs-P6peeTE-w7m4A5G_j7BmhspNJPLK50ISePDrvKKlWbduEeM7eB-Syugamk-1LXPyIRLPhn4OWasnjCxdhR_NVNrm1ysg-I96gMaFLRHKFRI2t6egE1warFjBD3YEhSXLjDY4FUxz9p7n7voyqFsdXvh5BqT4Zr5IneG/s1024/DSC_02850006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="685" data-original-width="1024" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLvdjqeIQpTDtSn7AO4obs-P6peeTE-w7m4A5G_j7BmhspNJPLK50ISePDrvKKlWbduEeM7eB-Syugamk-1LXPyIRLPhn4OWasnjCxdhR_NVNrm1ysg-I96gMaFLRHKFRI2t6egE1warFjBD3YEhSXLjDY4FUxz9p7n7voyqFsdXvh5BqT4Zr5IneG/w640-h428/DSC_02850006.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;"><p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">FINISHING</span></u></b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">Sew
the two sides together at the top hem with a mattress stitch, both sides. Felt the purse, I cord side ties, front
closure I cord and straps at the same time in the washing machine. Hot/cold cycle with a small amount of
detergent and a few other smooth pieces of clothing. (No towels.)
Stick around to watch the progress.
Repeat cycle if necessary. When felted
to your satisfaction, stuff the satchel with scrunched up plastic bags and lay
flat to dry.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifbfN0Mmnitb-8XwgOtwzFcp9V6t4eGZpagVuj37G_Fr3jrMZQxUx2TEGloljZ5zeO4xJtibuuQzT-h0_TSwMMQez9aA0WHyvH2pPJLvbF8MVw7LEVQTqY2LedDU_aXn5Dp3Pkl66sE_anhk1v99rAon9kyTT3E6NSQYEZ7owuahsLvLnlt7vnz5II/s478/Untitled.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="478" data-original-width="232" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifbfN0Mmnitb-8XwgOtwzFcp9V6t4eGZpagVuj37G_Fr3jrMZQxUx2TEGloljZ5zeO4xJtibuuQzT-h0_TSwMMQez9aA0WHyvH2pPJLvbF8MVw7LEVQTqY2LedDU_aXn5Dp3Pkl66sE_anhk1v99rAon9kyTT3E6NSQYEZ7owuahsLvLnlt7vnz5II/w310-h640/Untitled.png" width="310" /></a></div><br /></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">Pinch the sides together at the top and with a large
knitting needle (at least size 10) poke a hole through all 4 layers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Thread the I cord side ties through these
holes and tie a knot close to the purse.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>This cinches in the purse at the top.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>String a bead onto the end of each side I cord and tie a knot to hold in
place.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Repeat for other side. If you don't cinch in the sides, the top is too wide open.</span><span style="font-size: 24pt;"> </span></p><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;">With a sewing
machine, sew straps to purse about 3 inches in from each side. Sew a few times for strength. Fold the front
closure I cord in half and sew the two ends to the top middle of one side, on
the inside. Sew a bead onto the purse,
measuring where it should be. </span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiZZK-_EcFcXvpprdpUzpTglEnOXR-zYFnLqN9ycBcKotgAe-dG8eZUp2UhRErJcdAexSV20U4Kmw_hDMpO8rMFSyCkfUHeymglRvx69Ry9U6ggNWHrjLBi1zfsnPiiVQNWhIFYkxZK4uP4JpvvT3IFpMR-ES1eGUpza06qP0QfcDSBr8yimKIe8os8" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="738" data-original-width="272" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiZZK-_EcFcXvpprdpUzpTglEnOXR-zYFnLqN9ycBcKotgAe-dG8eZUp2UhRErJcdAexSV20U4Kmw_hDMpO8rMFSyCkfUHeymglRvx69Ry9U6ggNWHrjLBi1zfsnPiiVQNWhIFYkxZK4uP4JpvvT3IFpMR-ES1eGUpza06qP0QfcDSBr8yimKIe8os8=w235-h640" width="235" /></a></div><br />S<span style="line-height: 115%;">lip over the bead for measurement and sew together just above the bead with
sewing thread so that the top stays closed.</span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b><u><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">LINING<o:p></o:p></span></u></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;">Lay the bag on a piece of paper for a
pattern and trace around it leaving room for 5/8” seams on all sides and a 2”
hem on the top. Cut out two layers of
your lining with this pattern.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">For pockets, cut two rectangles about 10” wide x 8” long
out of the lining material and same out of interfacing. With right sides of the lining material
together and the interfacing on top, sew around 3 sides. Turn right side out. Stitch down the pocket to one side of the
lining about two inches down from the top and in the middle.
Sew vertical lines to divide the pocket for pens, cell phones, etc. Embroider initials on the other side of the
lining. With right sides together, sew
around the lining, leaving the top open.
Push into the felted bag, tacking the bottom of the bag to the bottom of
the lining in a few places on the inside.
Fold under the top hem to cover up the machine stitching. Hand sew with tiny stitches and doubled
thread. </span></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;">I hope you enjoy this project. It certainly will be unique to you.</span></p>Marhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14554632020726020481noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5850210578270320256.post-56970908169334708342022-12-02T13:59:00.000-06:002022-12-02T13:59:00.923-06:00I know an old lady who has so many empty yarn cones<p> Oh boy. I know it has been an awfully long time. I have lots of reasons both positive and negative, but I'll skip that part. Move right along if you are not interested in gnomes. What follows is a simplistic description of how these cuties were made. You can congratulate me on recycling every piece of them.</p><p>I should have been done with gnomes, nisse, by now, but I still think they are cute, especially for Christmas. These were given to my daughter for their fireplace mantel as a Christmas decoration. Mom, dad and child. Here's what I came up with:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh25kc-Dy_FXCd7G9Yqx_3bvUECgRcncYIw4INXHxZBhqsTlQ62dmbza6ZzMPePurh2GEP4bt6z0T6fuEBrgZWsyeecPkDxfW3l6x4C_oqT5fxwxh2vs31IhzmdupklWlrOl-xdQVpLQF-uGbQFtJgDMF2S7mDrjzvO-mkg2YeQB-hKHQ6gnPW9NUAy/s1020/gnome%20fam%2011%202022.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1020" height="496" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh25kc-Dy_FXCd7G9Yqx_3bvUECgRcncYIw4INXHxZBhqsTlQ62dmbza6ZzMPePurh2GEP4bt6z0T6fuEBrgZWsyeecPkDxfW3l6x4C_oqT5fxwxh2vs31IhzmdupklWlrOl-xdQVpLQF-uGbQFtJgDMF2S7mDrjzvO-mkg2YeQB-hKHQ6gnPW9NUAy/w657-h496/gnome%20fam%2011%202022.jpg" width="657" /></a></div><br /><p>My ingredients--</p><p>*an old Norwegian sweater that I made with my very first knitting machine 30 years ago (yikes, I must have been only 9 years old!)---a sweater that I haven't worn for eons</p><p>*a sharp scissors</p><p>*paper to make cone patterns</p><p>*3 empty cardboard yarn cones cut with box cutter to 6", 8" and 10" heights</p><p>*glue gun and lots of glue sticks</p><p>* pom poms</p><p>*fake fur fabric</p><p>*nylon and a little stuffing for noses, needle and thread, pink blush</p><p>*yarn and ribbon for braids</p><p>*snowflake buttons for the boys</p><p><br /></p><p>How I made them:</p><p>After <u>cutting the cones</u> to the various heights (surprisingly easy to cut), I rolled them onto a piece of paper to make 3 <u>patterns</u>.</p><p>Then I cut out pieces for the <u>bodies</u> from the sweater, using those paper patterns. I glued them onto the cones as quickly as possible so that the pieces wouldn't unravel. Hate that glue gun==== I always burn myself. But the artist has to suffer, don't you know. I tried to tuck in the raw edge of the seam down the backs, but they don't look too pretty. These are the backs. Extra fabric was tucked up into the cone and glued down, ouch.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJGok9zBCeCNAGLvFy3sTQzWIF20EzBsgwAls0xuFaX7LL9G5PHQW_8UAit8lAjK_CQRMI6nJ3iribEi9jbFN7lyydnJEzEvUTmeSMQWMh3VzgtL3l-JiF-s9mIxSUO6e-ox5KY8LBz_DcUL5ElxpFbZmpaGvwduusx9suNyUouEwoRjdcM6dvPZc0/s898/backs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="469" data-original-width="898" height="321" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJGok9zBCeCNAGLvFy3sTQzWIF20EzBsgwAls0xuFaX7LL9G5PHQW_8UAit8lAjK_CQRMI6nJ3iribEi9jbFN7lyydnJEzEvUTmeSMQWMh3VzgtL3l-JiF-s9mIxSUO6e-ox5KY8LBz_DcUL5ElxpFbZmpaGvwduusx9suNyUouEwoRjdcM6dvPZc0/w615-h321/backs.jpg" width="615" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Next I made <u>noses</u> by cutting 3 circles from an old clean nylon. Hand stitched around the circle, cinched it up and stuffed them with a bit of fiberfill. dabbed some pink blush onto them.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidULl6dea11Pu2quYQlxiDkP3_WXiPP3uRB72ELmb09havpMnSm7kkodCXEEjbV3avrK5al5OyTq9G9loZ4WWXjtZJFzslHaK430Rt7T0GKnq0JBkvTye1bAUTSQMIvwqwG7sKEdnSVjXi1VZuZV31OdezNx5HM6HXoO5XJtIRm9uen4zbKjoJVeCM/s457/nose.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="386" data-original-width="457" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidULl6dea11Pu2quYQlxiDkP3_WXiPP3uRB72ELmb09havpMnSm7kkodCXEEjbV3avrK5al5OyTq9G9loZ4WWXjtZJFzslHaK430Rt7T0GKnq0JBkvTye1bAUTSQMIvwqwG7sKEdnSVjXi1VZuZV31OdezNx5HM6HXoO5XJtIRm9uen4zbKjoJVeCM/s320/nose.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div>From the fake fur I cut out two <u>beards</u> and a <u>brim</u> for the girl's hat. Just eyeballed the shapes and sizes. The beards are basically triangles. When you cut this weird fabric it works best to draw the shape and cut from the back side. Slide your scissors under the fur to lose as little of it as possible.<div><br /></div><div>From the sleeve bottoms of the sweater I cut triangles for the 2 boys' <u>hats</u>. Nice to have ribbing for the bands of the hats. For the bottom of the girl's hat I just cut a triangle from the body of the sweater, planning to tuck the edge and glue it in place. These triangles were about 8" long tapering from the circumference of the head to the tip. With right sides together I seamed the hats, stitching by hand. All 3 hats got a pom pom glued to the ends.</div><div><br /></div><div>The order of doing things was this:</div><div>*glue sweaters onto cones for bodies</div><div>*glue on beards</div><div>* glue noses in place and add a bit of pink blush</div><div>*make 2 braids out of yarn and secure with bows. (daughter is Korean so braids are not blonde)</div><div>* pull hats on, having the back lower than the fronts and covering parts of the noses. Glue the boys' hats all around. Glue buttons onto boys' hats and a band of fur onto the girl's hat. Tuck under bottom of girl's hat to cover tops of braids so no raw edge and glue in place. </div><div><br /></div><div>I probably could have added something inside the cones to make them heavier, but they seem to stay upright ok. Also didn't add a circle to cover up the bottoms, but could have.</div><div><br /></div><div>Done! Have a good chuckle at how ridiculously cute they are and compliment yourself for keeping some stuff out of the landfill.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p></div>Marhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14554632020726020481noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5850210578270320256.post-85981315692424679682021-06-24T11:19:00.001-05:002021-06-24T11:19:30.752-05:00Water Colors Cowl Machine Knit Throwback<div style="text-align: left;">I'm having work done on my house---4 guys here. I feel like I'm trapped doing nothing really until they leave. So I decided to look over my patterns on my computer and saw one---- "Oh yeah. I liked how I did this one." and decided to post the directions. Whew! That was 10 years ago. Hope I explained it well enough because it's kind of an unusual way to knit. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l4BMorzZ_a8/YNSobUdHlJI/AAAAAAAAEMA/KO6jwHZH7R4D1i6T2Ch9YpPWD2ZDjW3lACLcBGAsYHQ/s606/a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="490" data-original-width="606" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l4BMorzZ_a8/YNSobUdHlJI/AAAAAAAAEMA/KO6jwHZH7R4D1i6T2Ch9YpPWD2ZDjW3lACLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/a.jpg" /></a></div><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-family: "Edwardian Script ITC"; font-size: 36.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Water Colors Cowl</span></b><b><span style="font-size: 36.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></p></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center; text-indent: .5in;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">By Mar Heck ©2011</span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<div style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><p style="text-align: left;"><i><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A unique looking cowl that can be
knit on any gauge knitting machine. No
ribber is required. The knitting is done
in the round so that when you have reached the desired height, you bind off and
there is no finishing required. The
technique can be adapted to scarves too.</span></i></p><div style="text-align: left;"><i><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></i></div><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><div style="text-align: left;"><b><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Machine</span></b><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">:
Any, no ribber required. </span></div></b><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><div style="text-align: left;"><b><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Yarn</span></b><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">:
Any that is interesting…Variegated or hand dyed yarn with long dye
repeats works well. One color is
interesting too though. The purl side
and knit side have entirely different appearance. You decide which you like better. Amount
needed will vary according to size you make.
Yarn used in the size small sample cowl:
Serenity Garden Yarn from the Deborah Norville Collection. One skein, 2.29 ounces/65 grams. 185 yards/ 169 meters. Microfiber. A larger cowl will require more yarn.</span></div><o:p><div style="text-align: left;"><b><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Gauge</span></b><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">:
Not important, whatever works well on your machine with your chosen yarn. You’ll need to decide how wide you want each
strip to be. On the standard gauge try 12
stitches to start. IF you don’t like,
rip out and change. The fewer the number of needles you cast on, the longer it
will take to reach the desired size. BUT
it depends on the “look” you want. With
sock yarn and the standard gauge machine, I started with 12 stitches, T 6, and
increased (loosened) the tension one dot each revolution to shape it a little.
(Conversely, you could start loose and tighten as you go. Doesn’t matter.) Or, don't bother to change the tension from start to finish.</span></div></o:p></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><div style="text-align: left;"><b><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Skill level</span></b><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">:
Beginner with some experience</span></div><o:p><div style="text-align: left;"><b><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Finished size</span></b><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">:
For the cowl, suggested sizes are Small= 20” around and 9” tall; medium
=22” around and 10” tall; large =24” around and 12” tall. However, you can make it any size you desire. </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div></o:p></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">TIPS FOR
THIS TECHNIQUE</span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">~</span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="color: red; font-size: 14pt;">READ FIRST</span></div><o:p><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">·<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> * </span></span><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"> This technique involves knitting on the bias
by decreasing on the left and increasing on the right. When the desired width is achieved (the width
you want to go <u>around </u>the neck), you start to attach loops beginning at
the start of the strip and continuing around, making a tube. When deciding on the width to go around the
neck, add 2+” because you lose an inch or so on each end as the first and last
triangles are formed.</span></div></o:p></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">·<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> *</span></span><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">You will need to make sure you hang
each loop only once and don’t skip any loops or you’ll change the circumference
of the tube and interrupt the lacey hole pattern!</span></div><o:p><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">·<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> *</span></span><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">With stockinette stitch as the public
side, the increases make a nice little decorative hole that spirals around the
thing and the doubled stitch makes a nice chain edge, also decorative. With the purl side as the public side, the
fabric has a woven look to it. (See photos at the end of the pattern.)</span></div></o:p></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">·<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> (</span></span><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"> Move claw weights up frequently, especially on
the right side since it is hanging at a slightly different angle. Or, if your
strip is narrow enough, hang on with one hand while running the carriage with
the other.</span></div><o:p><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">·<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> * </span></span><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">You’ll be knitting across the needle
bed, starting at the left side, and will most likely need to remove the
knitting on waste yarn when you get to the right side. Hang the stitches on the left side again and
remove waste yarn. Or, use a garter bar.</span></div></o:p></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">·<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> * </span></span><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">I like to pull the needles all the
way out when I increase and decrease so that if interrupted I can see at a
glance where I am in the pattern when I return.</span></div><o:p><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">·<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> *</span></span><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Don’t forget to loosen (or tighten)
the tension as you complete a revolution <u>if</u> you have decided to
construct your cowl this way. The
beginning tab indicates where you should do this. (If knitting a scarf, keep
tension the same throughout.)</span></div></o:p></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">·<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> * </span></span><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">If your ribber bed is still attached,
it’s likely you’ll be resting your left hand on it. It’s a good idea to put a ribber cover on or
hang a protective piece of fabric or your hand will get really sore! It’s actually easier to see what you’re doing
if you remove your ribber.</span></div><o:p><div style="text-align: left;"><b><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">DIRECTIONS</span></b></div></o:p></span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><div style="text-align: left;"><b><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">1.
Knit the first round on the bias, measuring to obtain the width you want
to go around your neck or <u>two times</u> the width of your scarf + an inch or
two for both (because you lose width in the beginning and ending triangles). </span></b><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">To knit this strip on the bias, start out by ewrapping your
chosen number of N on the left side of the needle bed. You may crochet cast on if you prefer. Knit 2 rows. (It’s hard to knit at first so
bring all N out before knitting to make sure the stitches knit off, hang on
with your hand for weight or attach claw weights.)</span></div></b><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">* <b><span style="color: #c0504d; mso-themecolor: accent2;">Decrease</span></b>
one stitch on the left by putting the second to the end stitch on the left end needle
and then move the doubled stitch to the right one needle. Put the emptied needle out of work. <b><span style="color: #00b050;">Increase</span></b>
one stitch on the right by pulling a needle all the way out. Knit two rows.* Repeat from * to * for desired length. You
will continue with the same number of stitches throughout. If you find suddenly that you have less or
more stitches than you started with, you either forgot to decrease or
increase. You should rip back to where
there are the correct number of stitches.
</span><span style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 20pt; line-height: 115%;">L</span><span style="font-size: 20pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></div> <o:p><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">This is one
time you can measure your strip while it’s on the machine.</span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">You knit this </span><u style="font-size: 14pt;">single strip just once</u><span style="font-size: 14pt;">.</span></div></o:p></span><div style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d_fW7kFyD0I/YNSqKdB7uUI/AAAAAAAAEMI/mP4oqrIMcH83TdRHrIIstyO3n9Yjv5lzACLcBGAsYHQ/s449/1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="449" data-original-width="314" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d_fW7kFyD0I/YNSqKdB7uUI/AAAAAAAAEMI/mP4oqrIMcH83TdRHrIIstyO3n9Yjv5lzACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/1.jpg" /></a></div><b><div style="text-align: left;"><b><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">2.
Attach and knit as you go to make a spiral</span></b><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">.
Think of how the cardboard on many toilet paper rolls are constructed. You’ll
be knitting around it making a spiral. As
the knitting is facing you, you’ll be knitting the inside of the tube. (The toilet roll is given to just help you
visualize this.)</span></div></b><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Bring the beginning end of the strip toward
the needle bed with the knit side facing you, curling it around so that you can
identify the first loop you made in #1.</span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">From
front to back, you will be putting a loop from the beginning of the strip onto
the left needle. </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">You should be able to
see that knit stitches of the strip will be on top of or next to knit stitches
and purl on top of or next to purl. </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Make
sure you haven’t twisted the strip.</span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">
</span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Check twice!</span></div><o:p><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mmZ4I9lZiCU/YNSqu-TM3hI/AAAAAAAAEMQ/K7OfQvfnNXYvhARpzxyvgxHEYSo_DwxQwCLcBGAsYHQ/s415/2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="309" data-original-width="415" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mmZ4I9lZiCU/YNSqu-TM3hI/AAAAAAAAEMQ/K7OfQvfnNXYvhARpzxyvgxHEYSo_DwxQwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h476/2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div></o:p></span><span style="font-family: "Calibri",sans-serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> This is the sequence:</span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">^</span><b style="font-size: 14pt;"><span style="color: #c0504d; mso-themecolor: accent2;">Decrease</span></b><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> one stitch on
the left by putting the second to the end stitch on the left end needle and
then move the doubled stitch to the right one needle.</span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Hang a loop from the strip on the first
needle on the left.</span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">(3 stitches on that
needle now.) </span><b style="font-size: 14pt;"><span style="color: #00b050;">Increase</span></b><span style="font-size: 14pt;">
one stitch on the right by pulling a needle all the way out.</span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Knit two rows.^</span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Repeat from ^ to ^ continuing to hang the
next loop as you move around the tube.</span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">
</span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">The simple increases on the right side form the loops that you will
eventually hang. </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">There is no beginning
or end to the row, you just continue on around your tube.</span></div></span><div style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dru5JKg5h24/YNSrG0OSS8I/AAAAAAAAEMY/DT-LY2IF2e4Tlf4IDH4Kd3gKTwGKlBDegCLcBGAsYHQ/s423/3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="339" data-original-width="423" height="512" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dru5JKg5h24/YNSrG0OSS8I/AAAAAAAAEMY/DT-LY2IF2e4Tlf4IDH4Kd3gKTwGKlBDegCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h512/3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Picking
up stitches</span><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">: On the picture above, the red represents a
stitch previously picked up. The next
stitch (loop) to be picked up and hung
is green. It lies horizontally, whereas
the stitch that was picked up previously is vertical and stretched out. You’ll be tempted to pick up the red
one. Don’t do it! </span><span style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">J</span></div><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Now decide
how long you want the cowl to be from chest to chin or how long you want the
scarf to be. </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Keep going until you like
the size or run out of yarn.</span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> </span></div></span><div style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H0pFS3qhwF4/YNSr1tG5mOI/AAAAAAAAEMk/fw1GMRn9sJ4_UsYJopZHLLQ9_jNqoKs3wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1033/4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="415" data-original-width="1033" height="258" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H0pFS3qhwF4/YNSr1tG5mOI/AAAAAAAAEMk/fw1GMRn9sJ4_UsYJopZHLLQ9_jNqoKs3wCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h258/4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Finish: Bind </span><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">off around the gate pegs, weave in
yarn ends. Fold over the beginning tab
or tack down. </span></div></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">This technique done as a scarf:</span></div><o:p><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n6exQC5vNh0/YNSsJzzH03I/AAAAAAAAEMw/0eKGSsyVr04KGAaIb5bJNYs2FMf8nEG9ACLcBGAsYHQ/s479/5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="479" data-original-width="379" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n6exQC5vNh0/YNSsJzzH03I/AAAAAAAAEMw/0eKGSsyVr04KGAaIb5bJNYs2FMf8nEG9ACLcBGAsYHQ/w506-h640/5.jpg" width="506" /></a></div></o:p></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-no-proof: yes;"><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Knit side as right side pictured on the left, doubled stitches make a decorative ridge. Compare
to purl side as right side pictured on the right.</span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Stitches
look woven. The lace holes seem to show up better on the purl side. You actually do not have to decide until the cowl is done.</span></div></span><div style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NfwAYsCmkL4/YNSuqIVkblI/AAAAAAAAEM4/JJKLE4SChLU064Ki0QadxYiMXDupDVIqACLcBGAsYHQ/s996/b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="568" data-original-width="996" height="364" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NfwAYsCmkL4/YNSuqIVkblI/AAAAAAAAEM4/JJKLE4SChLU064Ki0QadxYiMXDupDVIqACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h364/b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">Once again, hope I explained well enough. It's not hard to knit, just hard to explain.</div></div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Calibri",sans-serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"></span></p></span></div>Marhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14554632020726020481noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5850210578270320256.post-84521732163604113522021-06-14T11:10:00.002-05:002021-06-14T11:31:26.304-05:00Premie Standard Gauge Machine Knit Ballet Sweater<p> </p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">(Midgauge Baby Ballet can be found on the right side of the blog. This one is a little shorter.)</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"> I'm in the process of knitting baby stuff to donate. This is a super easy one for premies and if it weren't for all the yarn ends would go super fast. Some suggestions for those pesky things below.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Skill
Level:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Beginner<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Machine:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Standard 4.5 mm gauge<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 2;"> </span>No ribber needed<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Yarn:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Any that knits close to gauge.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My yarn is pretty skinny.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 360.55pt;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Gauge:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>8 stitches and
12 rows to one inch at T7<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>If you want to knit this but your
yarn obtains a <u>different gauge</u>, you can do the math.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>First, knit a gauge swatch with your yarn.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.5in;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Formula:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Pattern’s rows or stitches and DIVIDE them by
this pattern’s gauge, then take this figure TIMES the NEW gauge you obtained<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>(do the same for stitches and rows)<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.5in;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>EXAMPLE<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>stitches in the pattern back 44 divided
by 8 stitches per inch =5.5<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>your gauge ex 4st to an inch x 5.5 =
22 st<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>So instead of casting on 44 st, cast
on 22<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">In some
cases you will want to round up or down. For increases and decreases, look at
the end of the piece and spread out increases or decreases to get to the
correct amount.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fairly easy on this tiny
garment, a little trickier on large ones.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Finished
size</span></u><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"> (Just one
size)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>width of back 5.5”, length<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>4.5”, sleeve 3.0”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(can be rolled up to make a<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>little cuff)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"><!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_6"
o:spid="_x0000_i1028" type="#_x0000_t75" style='width:51pt;height:68.5pt;
visibility:visible;mso-wrap-style:square'>
<v:imagedata src="file:///C:\Users\MARHEC~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image003.jpg"
o:title=""/>
</v:shape><![endif]--></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tOpWROq9yE4/YMd9llHDDuI/AAAAAAAAEJM/Y1hZvqahPLc6-v5xaKsxlWMQw-Tqgd-7ACLcBGAsYHQ/image.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="91" data-original-width="68" height="240" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tOpWROq9yE4/YMd9llHDDuI/AAAAAAAAEJM/Y1hZvqahPLc6-v5xaKsxlWMQw-Tqgd-7ACLcBGAsYHQ/image.png" width="179" /></a></div><br /><o:p></o:p><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Here are the
DAK <u>schematics</u> for the pattern:<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; mso-no-proof: yes;"><!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_5" o:spid="_x0000_i1027"
type="#_x0000_t75" style='width:357.5pt;height:269.5pt;visibility:visible;
mso-wrap-style:square'>
<v:imagedata src="file:///C:\Users\MARHEC~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image005.png"
o:title=""/>
</v:shape><![endif]--></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7Z4eqw3K7P8/YMd9qup8rQI/AAAAAAAAEJQ/Tuguedk713gp5QSPzCHpoltKAPI202j1wCLcBGAsYHQ/image.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="359" data-original-width="477" height="482" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7Z4eqw3K7P8/YMd9qup8rQI/AAAAAAAAEJQ/Tuguedk713gp5QSPzCHpoltKAPI202j1wCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h482/image.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p></o:p></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; mso-no-proof: yes;"><!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_2" o:spid="_x0000_i1026"
type="#_x0000_t75" style='width:468pt;height:358.5pt;visibility:visible;
mso-wrap-style:square'>
<v:imagedata src="file:///C:\Users\MARHEC~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image007.png"
o:title=""/>
</v:shape><![endif]--></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vcIHR6xPEkE/YMd9yt3KN8I/AAAAAAAAEJU/jmzqAC1KkT4zdjg18R-L8N6FGGvUGQ7-gCLcBGAsYHQ/image.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="478" data-original-width="624" height="491" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vcIHR6xPEkE/YMd9yt3KN8I/AAAAAAAAEJU/jmzqAC1KkT4zdjg18R-L8N6FGGvUGQ7-gCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h491/image.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p></o:p></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>(make one, reverse one)<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; mso-no-proof: yes;"><!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_3" o:spid="_x0000_i1025"
type="#_x0000_t75" style='width:330pt;height:260pt;visibility:visible;
mso-wrap-style:square'>
<v:imagedata src="file:///C:\Users\MARHEC~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image009.png"
o:title=""/>
</v:shape><![endif]--></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bAkshV_nSI8/YMd96gCX3_I/AAAAAAAAEJc/oKGLNHE6XHUpssu7pYaWs_Ez67-kBuyDwCLcBGAsYHQ/image.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="347" data-original-width="440" height="505" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bAkshV_nSI8/YMd96gCX3_I/AAAAAAAAEJc/oKGLNHE6XHUpssu7pYaWs_Ez67-kBuyDwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h505/image.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p></o:p></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">This is <u>a
Designaknit</u> produced pattern.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>How to
read:<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 1in;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">The format is Row # --Decrease or increase so many stitches --every
so many rows --So many times.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Example:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On the front, on row 28, decrease one stitch
every two rows twice, so you decrease one stitch on row 28, knit 2 rows and
decrease again one stitch on row 30.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If
it helps, you can write down the in-between row decreases.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Hints –
Unfortunately there are a lot of ends to work in.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You can either wait until finishing and work
them in or try to weave them in as you go by hanging the end over every other
needle before you knit the row.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You can
also save some ends by leaving a long one at the bottom of the piece to seam
with.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>RC stands for row count.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">FF means
full fashioned</span></u><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is why the front edges don’t roll.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To decrease, move the 4<sup>th</sup> stitch
from the edge to the 3<sup>rd</sup>, the move all 3 stitches in to fill the
empty needle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To increase, move 3
stitches out one needle, then take the purl bump on an adjacent stitch and hang
it on the empty needle so that there is no hole.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">DIRECTIONS
IN WORDS<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">*****For all
pieces, do the 4 row rolled hem at a tighter tension (T3) then change to T7 and
RC000 to start the schematic.*****</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Back<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">With waste
yarn, cast on 44 stitches.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Knit several
rows at looser tension. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">With main
yarn ewrap left to right.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Change to T
3.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Knit 4 rows (might be a little
tight).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">RC 000
Change to T 7 and knit to RC<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>29.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bind off 3 stitches,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>knit one row.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">On row 30
bind off 3 stitches.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Knit to RC 54.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Take off these stitches in 3 parts. Put all
stitches in hold, machine to hold.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.5in;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">For the first shoulder take off 12 stitches on several rows
of waste yarn.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Remove from machine.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.5in;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Bind off the next 30 stitches, decreasing one stitch on the
10<sup>th</sup> and 20<sup>th</sup> needle. Remove from machine.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.5in;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Take machine off hold and take off the last 12 stitches on
several rows of waste yarn.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Remove from
machine.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Fronts:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Make one and reverse one.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">With waste
yarn, cast on 42 stitches.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Knit several
rows at looser tension. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">With main
yarn ewrap left to right.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Change to T
3.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Knit 4 rows (might be a little
tight).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">RC 000
Change to T 7 and follow the schematics using full fashioned decreases.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On row 30 for right side and 29 for left side
(next to carriage) bind off 3 stitches and continue with the other side ff decreases.
Knit to RC 54 and take the 12 st off on waste yarn.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Sleeves<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">With waste
yarn, cast on 28 stitches.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Knit several
rows at looser tension. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">With main
yarn ewrap left to right.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Change to T
3.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Knit 4 rows (might be a little
tight).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">RC 000
Change to T 7 and knit to RC<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>17.
Increase ff<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>one stitch both sides.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Knit to RC 34.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Increase ff one stitch both sides.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You now have 32 stitches.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Knit to RC 35 and take off on several rows of
waste yarn.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Finishing<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Join the
shoulder stitches</span></u><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Put your carriage on the left.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With the right side of the back piece facing
you, hang one set of 12 shoulder stitches.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>With the wrong side of one matching front, hang the 12 shoulder
stitches. Pull <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the needles out and push
the knitting to the back so that the stitches knit off properly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Knit one row and bind off.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(I like to bind off around gate pegs to get
the bind offs even.)<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Do the same
for the other shoulder.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<v:imagedata src="file:///C:\Users\MARHEC~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image011.png"
o:title="" cropright="-75f"/>
<w:wrap type="square"/>
</v:shape><![endif]--><br /><u><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Join the sleeves</span></u><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Put your carriage on the left.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With
the right side of one sleeve facing you, hang the 32 stitches.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you hang 16 on the left of zero and 16 on
the right, it’s easier to get the seam to come out right.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is a little tricky.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With the wrong side of the sweater facing
you, hang the shoulder seam at zero.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>With a 3 prong tool to measure out nicely, pick up <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>whole stitches from the body.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Skip a stitch of the garment and hang the
next 3 stitches.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Try really hard to
stick your tool in the same ditch every time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Looks wonky if you don’t.<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 5;"> </span></span><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UvYiqHQMDBk/YMd-L66pDsI/AAAAAAAAEJk/gsmeZ5PPbHgaeNXomphiKsWbIojc5xuAACLcBGAsYHQ/image.png" style="font-size: 18.6667px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="" data-original-height="218" data-original-width="116" height="240" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UvYiqHQMDBk/YMd-L66pDsI/AAAAAAAAEJk/gsmeZ5PPbHgaeNXomphiKsWbIojc5xuAACLcBGAsYHQ/image.png" width="128" /></a></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Continue
picking up until all sleeve stitches have been attached to the body.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Now take a ruler and measure from the bottom
of the sweater to the underarm.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Over on
the other side, begin hanging stitches at the same place so that the front and
back are not off kilter.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fill in the
stitches until all sleeve stitches are loaded up. <o:p></o:p></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Pull all
needles out and push knitting back so that the stitches knit off properly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Knit one row left to right and bind off.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Do the same
on the other side.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">TIES</span></u><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>-<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You need 4<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Pick up 3
stitches at a corner of the garment.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Hang a wt on the garment.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At T 6
Knit 60 rows.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you want to knit an I
cord, push in one part button and knit 120 rows.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Just knitting the tie plain causes it to roll
and it’s not too distinguishable from an I cord and goes faster.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bind off by putting the two outer stitches on
the center, cut the yarn and pull through to bind off/ fasten off.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Make 3 more
, one at each corner.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">SEAM <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Mattress
stitch the sides and the sleeves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Run in
yarn ends. Wash in detergent that doesn’t have perfume.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Steam a
little if you think it’s necessary.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Donate to
your favorite hospital or charity.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Might
want to put your donation in a plastic bag to keep it clean.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p>Now I need to come up with a quick boys' pattern.</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>Marhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14554632020726020481noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5850210578270320256.post-19085201824930540732021-04-25T10:05:00.000-05:002021-04-25T10:05:23.826-05:00Classyhund<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-30RLoxGaDlU/YIWC12DIB5I/AAAAAAAAD_o/-FW9ov0mJMQ2RA-Ef0tDu2axpE3pnagZgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1532/DSC04636%2Bol1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1532" data-original-width="1024" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-30RLoxGaDlU/YIWC12DIB5I/AAAAAAAAD_o/-FW9ov0mJMQ2RA-Ef0tDu2axpE3pnagZgCLcBGAsYHQ/w427-h640/DSC04636%2Bol1.jpg" width="427" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Once again, Ollie is the recipient of my sewing. Saw the instructions on Youtube for making the bow ties for dogs. Actually, I saw several examples and picked one that seemed to be easiest. If you want to make one, check out those videos. Good use of left over scraps of fabric. I lined the fabric with iron-on stabilizer so it is stiff and stays true to form. It attaches to his collar so stays on pretty well.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Amazing that he doesn't mind having a dresser. I would say he's the best dressed dawg in the neighborhood.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5MKnAjo9xyg/YIWE2HEVnRI/AAAAAAAAD_w/12wVOvIzT00OEfwxApKMz22mCFWbNRdnwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1532/DSC04644%2Bol2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1532" data-original-width="1024" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5MKnAjo9xyg/YIWE2HEVnRI/AAAAAAAAD_w/12wVOvIzT00OEfwxApKMz22mCFWbNRdnwCLcBGAsYHQ/w268-h400/DSC04644%2Bol2.jpg" width="268" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><br /><p></p>Marhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14554632020726020481noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5850210578270320256.post-52700086742693002352021-04-15T12:18:00.001-05:002021-04-15T12:20:01.837-05:00Machine Knit Cotton Hot Pads<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u8326JJndLQ/YHhxOLnEn2I/AAAAAAAAD-g/BJyEqwjc9GkdUQv71aZXdt4cHS8q_paiACLcBGAsYHQ/s1183/rosemaling%2Bsnowfl%2Band%2Bdeer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="722" data-original-width="1183" height="390" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u8326JJndLQ/YHhxOLnEn2I/AAAAAAAAD-g/BJyEqwjc9GkdUQv71aZXdt4cHS8q_paiACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h390/rosemaling%2Bsnowfl%2Band%2Bdeer.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="line-height: 107%;">I am on a
mission to use up some of my huge cotton stash.
Have knit a lot of dishcloths, but thought it would be fun to be a
little more creative---and make something useful. I now have a cache of little gifts on hand.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="line-height: 107%;">Here’s how I
have done them:<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="line-height: 107%;">*Used all cotton yarn and my standard gauge Brother 970
machine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My designs are approx. a gauge
of 7 st and 10 r to the inch, but it doesn’t matter. Mine end up to be between
7 and 9 inches wide by approximately the same height. You could use
wool---haven’t tried because I am trying to use up the cotton.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You could also do these with a punch card
machine or knit them plain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But , where’s
the fun in plain???<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="line-height: 107%;">*Start with
several rows of waste yarn with a quick cast on.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Engage the design with your electronics, then
just knit <u>not</u> doing a permanent cast on with main yarn.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I tried to be sure to do the design so that
the carriage ends at the right side when adding contrast yarn. The designs are
knit in one longish rectangle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Might
want to switch between KC I and KC II for some rows so you don’t have a
contrast yarn going all the way across the knitting for no good reason.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When the design is done, the bottom row is
seamed to the top row.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="line-height: 107%;">* Some of your
designs may have long floats.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not to
worry.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They add to the insulation
factor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had no trouble with the
stitches not conforming to one another or splitting between stitches, but if
you do have this issue you can latch up the long float to a matching color. No
one sees the inside.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="line-height: 107%;">* You may
wonder why you need more rows in the middle of a design when both bottom and
top halves are the same.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I found out the
hard way that you need about 4 rows to go around the “bend” when you seam
bottom to top or it’s off.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you only
want to do the bottom half of the design, that’s fine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Just remember to do the same rows as the
design and add 4 extra rows.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Example—the
design is 86 rows.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Knit the 86, do 4
rows plain, knit 86 rows plain.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="line-height: 107%;">*Adding a
loop in the corner is optional.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I did
about 6 stitches x 50-60 rows, plain knitting since it curls like I cord
anyway.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Looks nice if you hang the front
corner with wrong side facing, knit the loop, then pick up stitches from the
back side, knit a row and bind off.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When
you seam the sides you can hide the purl bumps.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="line-height: 107%;">* To seam
bottom to top, you have two options:<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>-The Perfectionist option is to
take the piece off on waste yarn when the design is complete, turn it so the
right side is facing you, hang bottom to top stitches.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then bind off. The seam will be on the inside
and not show.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>-The quicker, easier way is to
hang the beginning stitches onto the top stitches when the piece is complete,
then bind off around the gate pegs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You
will have a seam on the right side.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
think it looks ok. On one I ran out of main yarn right when I needed ONE MORE
ROW!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So I used the contrast yarn to bind
off.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So one row was main and one
contrast.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I actually liked it--- it
created a decorative stitch.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="line-height: 107%;">* Options
for insulation for the middle of the hot pad--- I have used layers of
insulbright, >1 layer of flannel cotton fabric (laundered first),<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>knitted squares of cotton yarn I didn’t like,
old cotton cut to size swatches, machine sewed around edges so they wouldn’t
unravel, cotton quilting batting, old clean towels.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After completing the knitting, I turned it
wrong side out, then tacked the lining to the outer in several places, so it wouldn’t
shift.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I used regular matching cotton sewing
thread. Doesn’t show if you take tiny stitches. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When you are sure the lining won’t shift, turn
right side out. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>* Finally, remove waste yarn and mattress
stitch the side seams by hand with right side showing.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="line-height: 107%;">I used
patterns that I have had in DAK for ages, some are built-in patterns, some are
purchased—lots of Dale of Norway patterns.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="line-height: 107%;">Some examples-----------Have
knitted abt 15 so far.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Addictive. Can
you tell I love Norwegian designs???<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p><h4 style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0TrlJW7WOa4/YHhxl8L89TI/AAAAAAAAD-o/SPvk-sRmFG8Yd0JiI2D-NmwH0b_RT6hSACLcBGAsYHQ/s816/more%2Bpics.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="700" data-original-width="816" height="550" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0TrlJW7WOa4/YHhxl8L89TI/AAAAAAAAD-o/SPvk-sRmFG8Yd0JiI2D-NmwH0b_RT6hSACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h550/more%2Bpics.jpg" width="640" /></a></h4><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="line-height: 107%;"><o:p>I plan to tell a recipient to hand wash cold, dry flat. I don't want them (the hotpads) to shrink and pucker up. 😊</o:p></span></p>My absolute favorite is the rosemaling design. It was a free chart on the Dale of Norway site. I converted the chart to a DAK file. If you would like to have it, write to me. I don't know how to attach a file here with Blogger. If someone knows how, would like to be enlightened.<p></p>Marhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14554632020726020481noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5850210578270320256.post-14901081823708465252021-03-10T12:01:00.000-06:002021-03-10T12:01:50.488-06:00Cotton Pullover for Grandson<p>Finally got over my funk a little bit and did some knitting. Never contracted the carona virus and did get both of my Pfizer vaccinations. Dont' know what has been the problem. Hope to shape up and knit and post some more stuff. As always the picture doesn't do it justice. Really does look better in person. Weird dark shadowy rainy day today affecting the photo. The armhole decreases really are the same.</p><p>Just in case you have a 8-9-10 year old to knit for, here is a pattern you could use. Write to me if you can use the Designaknit file and I'll email it to you. Otherwise, you can follow the directions below.</p><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><span style="font-size: 18.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Pullover for Luca age 9<o:p></o:p></span></u></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><span style="font-size: 18.0pt; line-height: 107%; mso-no-proof: yes;"><!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shapetype
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 18.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Midgauge (SR
860 + ribber) </span><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>by Mar Heck<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>3-9-21<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Notes:<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">*<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Used Conshohocken cotton yarn---has a core
that is roving-like with a stronger thread wrapped around.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Shrinks terribly so I knit two gigantic
rectangles, guessed that it would be enough yarn to knit the sweater, washed in
hot water and dried in dryer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then
re-wound onto cones.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Should be
sufficiently pre-shrunk.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Had to clean a
lot of fluff out of the dryer!!! It’s really soft, one positive thing to say
about it.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">* Sweater is
a size 10 as measured by store-bought boys’ sweater.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">* Gauge for
main pieces is 5 st and 6 rows to one inch at T6<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">* T 3/3 for
ribbing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">^sleeves 22 rows<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">^ front and back bottom ribbing 8 rows<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">^ neck 10 rows<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: 3.0pt;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Transferred rib stitches to main bed
and knit right to left with one row T 8 for loop through loop bind off.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: 3.0pt;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">* DAK shape
file is for the pieces not including ribbing.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NHxTLneUD60/YEkC2u31ccI/AAAAAAAAD7k/jbcynvhJ7tw2IhmrZfCsxIbSzqIgKHQgACLcBGAsYHQ/s866/bottom%2Bribbing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="580" data-original-width="866" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NHxTLneUD60/YEkC2u31ccI/AAAAAAAAD7k/jbcynvhJ7tw2IhmrZfCsxIbSzqIgKHQgACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/bottom%2Bribbing.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">* Start with
waste yarn and ravel cord for all 4 pieces.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>When done, turn the piece upside down and do the ribbing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bind off for the cotton yarn was nicer than
the cast on.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>First used a bind off
around the gate pegs and it flared too much.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Loop through loop looks better.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">*<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Neck is big because L wants to wear a cotton T shirt underneath and
doesn’t like tight necks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Can be
adjusted.<o:p></o:p></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VrhMIIueD5k/YEkDLqz1HFI/AAAAAAAAD7w/Q0P-WMCm9PQ0m83XMvL0vJO14brmYg0qgCLcBGAsYHQ/s505/neck.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="505" data-original-width="352" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VrhMIIueD5k/YEkDLqz1HFI/AAAAAAAAD7w/Q0P-WMCm9PQ0m83XMvL0vJO14brmYg0qgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/neck.jpg" /></a></div><br /><br />
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">* Neck was
done with FF decreases one side at a time rather than short rowing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>First time doing neck this way and I like
it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Easier to do with this machine than
short rowing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Needles kept popping into
work when short rowing, frustrating the heck out of me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Blue air.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Maybe need a new sponge bar???????<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /><!--[endif]--></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-amjH72xcKUM/YEkDqeRNx7I/AAAAAAAAD78/YLbO2-iUn_c-AOaVNJwLewBQikPnK-4BACLcBGAsYHQ/s830/modifica.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="329" data-original-width="830" height="254" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-amjH72xcKUM/YEkDqeRNx7I/AAAAAAAAD78/YLbO2-iUn_c-AOaVNJwLewBQikPnK-4BACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h254/modifica.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p></o:p></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">* This yarn
is hard to work with since it has <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">NO</b>
stretch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Next time will use an
easier-to-work- with yarn.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Now….what to
do with all this extra pre-shrunk yarn?????</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-88VS6jriQXo/YEkGTAuriII/AAAAAAAAD8k/cOaee-aaqtcQbFUzuJZXaTdwBGjSSGKYwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1034/sleeve%2Bdak.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1034" data-original-width="1034" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-88VS6jriQXo/YEkGTAuriII/AAAAAAAAD8k/cOaee-aaqtcQbFUzuJZXaTdwBGjSSGKYwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/sleeve%2Bdak.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yYXph-bk-Wg/YEkFdrbjYWI/AAAAAAAAD8U/3E36pMYLktc6S8oyvhROnSKTMqpf00vGgCLcBGAsYHQ/s719/front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="719" data-original-width="719" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yYXph-bk-Wg/YEkFdrbjYWI/AAAAAAAAD8U/3E36pMYLktc6S8oyvhROnSKTMqpf00vGgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/front.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zZtxy69A7rY/YEkF_xgkuwI/AAAAAAAAD8c/QDR1BUszuhs6eyGoHFh3tKZwZ-iL8LEHwCLcBGAsYHQ/s719/back.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="719" data-original-width="719" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zZtxy69A7rY/YEkF_xgkuwI/AAAAAAAAD8c/QDR1BUszuhs6eyGoHFh3tKZwZ-iL8LEHwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/back.png" width="640" /></a></div>Sorry the numbers are a bit blurry. I can't seem to copy them so they show up well.Marhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14554632020726020481noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5850210578270320256.post-11241068952812312492020-10-07T12:53:00.002-05:002020-10-08T12:47:15.338-05:00Easy Machine Knit Pillow Project<p> <span style="font-size: 14pt;">T</span><span style="background-color: white;">oo much time on the computer,
too many movies, and too much political stuff makes for an odd existence these
days. Can't seem to concentrate on anything too complicated, so I decided
to use up some of my nice Brown Sheep wool and make some pillows for one of my
couches. I hadn't used too many of the built-in patterns on my 970,
usually preferring to do my own thing. Can't erase them from the CB1 so why not
give some of them a try? So here goes my easy project:</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U2hH7dnxWCY/X33_KtECV3I/AAAAAAAADx8/nbMU4P1Y3QoLSDtZB_xOXCa0ggzcgqyeACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/cushions%2Busing%2B970%2Bpats.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="902" data-original-width="1600" height="314" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U2hH7dnxWCY/X33_KtECV3I/AAAAAAAADx8/nbMU4P1Y3QoLSDtZB_xOXCa0ggzcgqyeACLcBGAsYHQ/w559-h314/cushions%2Busing%2B970%2Bpats.jpg" width="559" /></a></div><br /><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 107%;">The picture makes them look like they are different sizes. They really are all the same. It's the angle I took the picture from, I guess. The
3 in the middle are from the 970 (maybe also other Brother models ?) and the 2
end ones were downloaded from an old DAK file I had. I wanted to make them
approximately 17" x 17" so at T 10 I cast on 120 stitches and knit
300 rows. My gauge was 7 stitches and 9 rows to the inch. If you want to make some to your specifications, you'll want to figure out your gauge with the yarn you plan to use. Close is probably good enough for this project.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 107%;"> I also
sewed a cotton fabric lining for each and used the lining to stuff with the
poly fiber fill. Didn't want the filling to work its way out of the
knitting. After sewing the lining shut I folded the knitting over it and
seamed the sides and bottom. Couldn't be much easier. Hope they
won't ever need to be laundered in my lifetime...</span><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><span style="background-color: white;"></span><p></p>Marhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14554632020726020481noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5850210578270320256.post-35677941590818688232020-09-28T13:34:00.000-05:002020-09-28T13:34:26.068-05:00Baby Elf Hat on the standard gauge machine<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RPegT9lCrJE/X3IlOi61IXI/AAAAAAAADwE/iigw5GsAuyMcqDN1Lx2Y9u9C5oxD4Z2DACLcBGAsYHQ/s749/baby%2Belf%2Bhat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="749" data-original-width="544" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RPegT9lCrJE/X3IlOi61IXI/AAAAAAAADwE/iigw5GsAuyMcqDN1Lx2Y9u9C5oxD4Z2DACLcBGAsYHQ/w464-h640/baby%2Belf%2Bhat.jpg" width="464" /></a></div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%; mso-no-proof: yes;">I wanted to give this hat pattern a Norwegian name.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So, I tried the Google translation
service<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>for English to Norwegian and
here are some suggestions.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not sure
which would be most true.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Maybe a Norwegian
speaking person could help me out.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Anyway,
here’s my first attempt at a 3-6 month hat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Pretty cute. </span><span style="font-size: 16pt;">The size
seems ok, but I don’t have a baby to try it on. So this is my best guess. Will
be donated, so size isn’t crucial right now. Finished dimensions (including
ribs) are width at tip 6”, width above ribbing 5”, top to bottom of the neck 6”.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Yarn: from my stash, acrylic. Use </span><span style="font-size: 21.3333px;">something that gets close to this gauge. Mine had no label.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Machine:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>standard gauge with ribber<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Gauge for
stockinette:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>31 st = 4” and 37 rows =
4”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>@T 7.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Kinda weird, I know but close is ok I would think. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Directions:<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Overview…
(knit from front of face to back of head)<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="margin-left: 67.5pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">1.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>75 needles 1 x 1 rib.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Do Susan Gualiumi’s nifty <b>cast on for
rib</b>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My new bestie because it lies
perfectly flat, no flare, but is still stretchy.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Use the manual’s cast on with
waste yarn, (zig zag row) insert rib comb, add one barrel weight in the middle,
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>do 3 rows circular, cancel circular and
knit about 1” of rib with this waste yarn.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Tension doesn’t matter so much here. Change back to circular and k the
last 2 rows with ravel cord.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Snip waste
yarn and ravel cord. It’s ok if you forget to switch to ravel cord, but it’s
harder to remove at the end than it is when you use ravel cord. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 67.5pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">2.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; line-height: normal;"><b> </b></span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><b> Main part</b>. With main yarn, T6/6 do the manual’s cast on again
and knit 12 rows ribbing. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 67.5pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">3.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Change to regular sinker plate and
transfer rib stitches to main bed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><b>Knit
stockinette</b> at T7 to RC 38, which should be about<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>5”.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 67.5pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">4.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Begin <b>short rowing </b>so that you get
the elvish point at the back of the head. Important to weight the knitting so the stitches don't pop off. Set machine to hold.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>*CAR put 7 N in hold at the left of the
knitting. Knit across, wrap the end st so you don’t get a hole.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Put 7 needles on right in hold.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Knit across to the right and wrap the end st.*
Continue from * to * until you have 5 stitches left in work.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Put 2 in hold, knit across and wrap, put two
on right in hold, knit to the right.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 67.5pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">5.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Put all stitches back in work (or just
undo the hold setting) and knit 2 rows.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><b>Bind
off</b>.<span style="color: #4472c4; mso-themecolor: accent5;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 67.5pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">6.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="color: black; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%; mso-themecolor: text1;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Stitch the <b>back of the head seam</b> by hand.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 67.5pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">7.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="color: black; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%; mso-themecolor: text1;"><b>Bottom
neck ribbing</b>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With the wrong side of the
knitting facing you, stretch out the bottom of the hat to pick up 70
stitches.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Try to pick up in the ditch
between stitches at the same place across.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Knit 2 rows stockinette at T 10.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 67.5pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">8.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="color: black; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%; mso-themecolor: text1;">Change
sinker plate to <b>rib</b>, transfer every other stitch to ribber.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At T 6/6, rib 12 rows.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Transfer rib stitches to main bed and <b>bind
off</b> with your favorite bind off technique.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>On this one I did around the gate pegs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span></span><span style="color: #5b9bd5; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%; mso-themecolor: accent1;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 67.5pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">9.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><b>I cord Straps</b>:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I know some object to ties, but many babies do live after having had their hats tied under their chins, so I’m going with
it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you have another method, have at
it.<span style="color: #5b9bd5; mso-themecolor: accent1;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 67.5pt; mso-add-space: auto;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Pick up 4 stitches at the
bottom corner of one front.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Set carriage
to slip one way, knit the other.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>(Brother, one part button.) At T 9 knit 150 rows and bind off.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Same for other side.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hide yarn ends and tie a knot at the ends of
the ties.</span></p>
<p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="margin-left: 67.5pt; mso-add-space: auto;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Remove the waste yarn. There are a few yarn ends to hide. I did not steam the hat to block it, but you may want to.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="margin-left: 67.5pt; mso-add-space: auto;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Notes: You may also want to add a tassel or a pompom to the point of the hat and to the I cord ends. A fairisle pattern would be nice too. Because the seam at the back of the head can be bulky, next time I will take the top off on waste yarn and kitchener stitch the seam shut. This is an easy knit and a good way to practice short rowing if you are not used to doing that technique. I wouldn't say this is a fast knit because of the transfers between beds, but worth it, I think. If you don't have a ribber, a hung hem would do.</span></p>Marhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14554632020726020481noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5850210578270320256.post-73296082730965998482020-09-10T14:06:00.001-05:002020-09-10T14:07:25.429-05:00Educats and Edudogs<p> Thank you for the interest in the Educat and Edudog blanket patterns. They are available for purchase using PayPal for $10.00 each. My label there is marsmachineknitting. You need to have DAK (any version) and an electronic machine to download to. I do also have a hand knitting version.</p><p>The blanket is lined as you go and the edges are bound with multi-color Icord. I have made mine with acrylic so they would be easily washable. Any yarn that works with your machine is ok as long as the different colors are the same weight. I think the blanket would be ok to do on a garter carriage for the front, although I personally don't have the patience. The idea is like an "I spy" quilt where you have the child find the cat who is sad or the dog that looks like Harry Potter, etc.</p><p>If you wish to purchase, just email me with the address you'd like the pattern to be emailed to and I will send you an invoice.</p><p>Thanks again. If questions, just email me.</p>Marhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14554632020726020481noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5850210578270320256.post-82838535099340143112020-09-09T12:15:00.001-05:002020-09-09T12:18:41.000-05:00Super warm hat for winter<h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Having a hard time motivating myself to knit these days. Ironic since I do have all the time in the world staying home, hiding from the pandemic. But, thought I would try a hat for my son. Winter is coming, for sure. If you want to follow this pattern, you'll need to use a ribber. Maybe you could do a mock rib for the cuff, but I don't know how that would look, haven't tried it.</span></h4><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5jdK6bgacXM/X1kB8XfmbjI/AAAAAAAADuA/MGARdYVF8pI3Ti7ziRHQjqKJVHdrWPzRQCLcBGAsYHQ/s581/hat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="574" data-original-width="581" height="494" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5jdK6bgacXM/X1kB8XfmbjI/AAAAAAAADuA/MGARdYVF8pI3Ti7ziRHQjqKJVHdrWPzRQCLcBGAsYHQ/w500-h494/hat.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This one is extra super warm because it's doubled. Measurements are about 21" around and 9" tall with the rib folded. If a person wanted a slouch-look, you wouldn't have to fold the cuff. This is an adult sized hat, so if you need a different size, you'll have to adjust stitches and rows.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> My gauge with Tamm Sport was 7 stitches and 9 rows to one inch.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">*I started with waste yarn, every other needle, over 148 needles. Knit about an inch then changed to the main yarn. (No need to cast on, just knit right over the waste yarn.) </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">*Knit one row with the eon arrangement then bring all needles to work. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">*Knit 100 rows of the stockinette, then transfer to 1 x 1 rib. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">*Knit 60 rows rib, then transfer back to stockinette. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">* Knit 99 rows so that the carriage ends up on the left. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">*Transfer to every other needle, knit one row left to right. Leave a long tail of the main yarn. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">*Take off on about an inch of waste yarn, still in the eon arrangement.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">* Fold the hat in half so the two ends meet and hand sew the stitches together. Remove waste yarn and cinch the stitches as tight as you can. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">*Then seam the side with a mattress stitch outside and inside.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-moLXxGqR968/X1kDX1JSlJI/AAAAAAAADuM/rKNBcx0zGKgd423GzWG4WV_FeFIJaMjvACLcBGAsYHQ/s1137/hat1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="680" data-original-width="1137" height="374" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-moLXxGqR968/X1kDX1JSlJI/AAAAAAAADuM/rKNBcx0zGKgd423GzWG4WV_FeFIJaMjvACLcBGAsYHQ/w625-h374/hat1.jpg" width="625" /></a></div><br /></div>I made two I cords for the top, not a pom pom, because my son doesn't like pom poms. They are 5 stitches wide and 80 rows long. (With I cord, the knitting is really only 40 rows long.) I stuffed the two ends into the hole at the top, which conveniently closes it up. secured the ends on the inside. Then I tied a knot on the outside top. (You can kind of see it in the picture.) Both ends also have a knot. Actually I do like pom poms. One would cover the top hole nicely too.</div><div>I would not say this is a quick-to-knit hat because of the transferring of stitches. However, some acrylic yarns if used single layer are not warm enough in our climate, so the doubled ones are better. If you wanted, you could put a fairisle pattern on the top half. <br /><span style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></span></div>Marhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14554632020726020481noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5850210578270320256.post-73182725265627881762020-08-24T12:49:00.000-05:002020-08-24T12:49:38.927-05:00Beautiful rib cast on<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HGEWrY4tgt8/X0P9KAeHcfI/AAAAAAAADtI/sE821906ETQRn_UtvByGmrTclRoFr-cewCLcBGAsYHQ/s422/rib%2Bcast%2Bon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="422" data-original-width="292" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HGEWrY4tgt8/X0P9KAeHcfI/AAAAAAAADtI/sE821906ETQRn_UtvByGmrTclRoFr-cewCLcBGAsYHQ/s0/rib%2Bcast%2Bon.jpg" /></a></div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 40.5pt;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;">I’ve been using Susan Guagliumi’s nifty cast on for rib for
my projects.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I love this cast on because
it lies perfectly flat, no flare, but is still stretchy. Can’t believe I didn’t
know or use this before. This would work with any machine that uses a ribber,
but you will need to also consult your manual.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;">How to:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;">*Use the manual’s cast on with <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">waste
yarn</b>, insert rib comb, add barrel weights as needed for your project. Knit
about 1”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(Tension doesn’t matter so
much here but I used a tighter tension because my waste yarn was thinner than
my main yarn. )<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;">*Change to circular and k the last 2 rows with <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">ravel cord</b>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;">*Snip waste yarn and ravel cord. (It’s ok if you forget to switch to
ravel cord, but it’s harder to remove the waste yarn at the end if you don’t
use ravel cord.)<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;">* With <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">main yarn</b>, do
the manual’s cast on again using the recommended tension and knit the number of
rows you want for your rib. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;">*When you are ready, remove waste yarn and ravel cord.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Thanks to Susan for this easy – to – remember rib cast
on.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So smart and beautiful.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="margin-left: 58.5pt; mso-add-space: auto;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><o:p></o:p></p>Marhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14554632020726020481noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5850210578270320256.post-11146104969018095522020-07-26T13:35:00.000-05:002020-07-26T13:35:24.778-05:00Tiny Ted #90<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0tAUOVl4oxE/Xx3KhSEvfFI/AAAAAAAADrg/48OvaJ2X5lEwI3Bnb5t9R-2ASsQ1wUxTgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/ted.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="611" data-original-width="1097" height="356" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0tAUOVl4oxE/Xx3KhSEvfFI/AAAAAAAADrg/48OvaJ2X5lEwI3Bnb5t9R-2ASsQ1wUxTgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/ted.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Have been using my embroidery machine to do some more charity stuff. These tiny teds are intended for the local visiting nurses group at a metro hospital. As mentioned before probably, they like to bring a little gift to the new mothers and babies.<br />
<br />
This is a free design obtainable from <a href="https://www.kreativekiwiembroidery.co.nz/">https://www.kreativekiwiembroidery.co.nz/</a><br />
The owner doesn't specify that your teds be for charity, but it would be nice if you made some for your local hospital. I use the 5 x 7 hoop. They go pretty fast and use up those little scraps of fabric you can't bear to toss. I've made every color combo imaginable and most have an applique nose. Goes faster if you don't do the applique, but it does add to the design. I bought my polyester fiber fill (32 oz.) from Amazon for $10 and it has lasted through 5 throw pillows and most of my teds with lots to spare. Ted's finished dimensions are 4.5" from tips of hands and 5.5" tall. Good size for a baby's little hands. <br />
<br />
I always wash my fabric first with laundry detergent that has no perfume, because you know he'll inevitably end up in a baby's mouth. Still, it's an incredibly easy and fast pattern.<br />
PS, I did clip corners, but maybe I could have done more on this one. O well, is still cute.<br />
<br />Marhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14554632020726020481noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5850210578270320256.post-41841723734913769412020-06-21T12:07:00.001-05:002020-09-10T14:22:34.183-05:00Diana Sullivan's Fingerless Mitts<p style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This is one of my favorite patterns. It's a free one on Diana's blog:<br /><a href="http://diananatters.blogspot.com/2013/12/decembers-video-fingerless-mitts.html">http://diananatters.blogspot.com/2013/12/decembers-video-fingerless-mitts.html<br /></a>
I'm surprised it was almost 7 years ago.</p>
<p style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dOyS9AKfgr4/Xu-RkYAUG-I/AAAAAAAADqM/pWlB4iXS92MkAj35L7gueFiAbuhq26aSACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/gloves.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1169" data-original-width="850" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dOyS9AKfgr4/Xu-RkYAUG-I/AAAAAAAADqM/pWlB4iXS92MkAj35L7gueFiAbuhq26aSACLcBGAsYHQ/s400/gloves.jpg" width="290" /></a><span style="font-weight: normal;">Because of the yarn I used (Mary Lue's Wintuck) I found I needed to loosen the tension and add 2 stitches in width of the cuff, hand and thumb. Otherwise, I followed the pattern for stitch type and row count. They fit nicely. In the scan it looks like the thumb pooches out but actually when worn fits snug to the thumb. The pattern is easy and I think clever.<br />I'm making items that can be used as Christmas presents in a group home. <br /></span><span style="font-weight: normal;">I'm making items that can be used as Christmas presents in a group home. <br /></span><span style="font-weight: normal;">I've sewn and embroidered 30 zip pouches, which I'll photograph one of these days. Other than gardening, crafts are my main occupation. Waiting for a vaccination like everyone else before venturing out too much.</span></p>
<br />Marhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14554632020726020481noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5850210578270320256.post-34801343116690010682020-04-22T14:21:00.001-05:002020-09-10T14:18:15.535-05:00Cute premie hat using dishcloth pattern<p style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Just trying different things so I don't get totally bored. This one turned out nice, I think. I used the traditional dishcloth pattern, double high, on the main part of the hat.</p><p style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SruXTFrZavk/XqCWWylWvTI/AAAAAAAADng/D8OWRkXD_040tMgjAc4Y6bAU5PjNBLN6QCEwYBhgL/s1600/dishcloth%2Bpremie.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="250" data-original-width="323" height="246" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SruXTFrZavk/XqCWWylWvTI/AAAAAAAADng/D8OWRkXD_040tMgjAc4Y6bAU5PjNBLN6QCEwYBhgL/s320/dishcloth%2Bpremie.jpg" width="320" /></a></p><p style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
After the hem (described below) I did two plain rows, the last to set up the tuck stitch. It accidentally added a little decorative band. Because tuck stitches are wider than tall I did 60 rows to get a decent height. Can't judge the height while the piece is on the machine. <br />This might look ok as an adult sized hat too.<br /><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NvLlDZkifYg/XqCYsn7-9-I/AAAAAAAADns/BGa9I6U-PhEvoEiMoCDS1e4dhK0KEI4TwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/pat.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="311" data-original-width="205" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NvLlDZkifYg/XqCYsn7-9-I/AAAAAAAADns/BGa9I6U-PhEvoEiMoCDS1e4dhK0KEI4TwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/pat.jpg" /><br /></a>
That's the pattern in case you didn't know what I was talking about.<br /></p>
<br />Marhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14554632020726020481noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5850210578270320256.post-27597810518201835752020-04-04T16:58:00.002-05:002020-09-10T14:20:15.226-05:00More MK Premie hats done with skinny yarn<p style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
I think I am up to 40 now. They really do go fast and it's a nice project to seam while watching a movie.<br /><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tNdfaMrAFHo/Xoj5dP4oAoI/AAAAAAAADl4/uz0up6TbRxMoBD_TI8YvCavq-2HPsfhlwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/premie%2Bhats%2B2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="576" data-original-width="490" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tNdfaMrAFHo/Xoj5dP4oAoI/AAAAAAAADl4/uz0up6TbRxMoBD_TI8YvCavq-2HPsfhlwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/premie%2Bhats%2B2.jpg" width="272" /><br /></a></p><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tNdfaMrAFHo/Xoj5dP4oAoI/AAAAAAAADl4/uz0up6TbRxMoBD_TI8YvCavq-2HPsfhlwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/premie%2Bhats%2B2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;">These are done with a built-in pattern in the Brother 970, #47. Any pattern will do. I just like the Nordic look of this one. The white cuffed one is 8" in circumference and 4" in height with the cuff turned up. The blue cuffed one is 9.5" in circumference and 5" including cuff in height with the cuff not turned up, Funny how switching the main and contrast yarns give such a different look. I'm really not too interested in the sizes because the nurses will figure out who fits which one. Feel free to add or subtract stitches and rows.</a></div><div style="text-align: left;">A few years ago I purchased several cones of really skinny yarn. I think I thought I was going to use it for double bed jacquard. Sadly learning that technique is still on my bucket list. So the size of the yarn is why the gauge is what it is. These are done on a standard gauge machine.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Directions- in case you have some really skinny yarn too. For the blue main yarn version.</div><div style="text-align: left;"> Gauge 8 stitches and 10 rows = 1 inch on the patterned portion, not including cuff.</div><div style="text-align: left;">1. Cast on 72 stitches with waste yarn every other needle by knitting one row. Hang the cast on comb and some claw weights.</div><div style="text-align: left;">2. Pull the other needles to work and knit about 5 more rows of waste yarn. (I like to use a loose tension for the waste yarn and for the first row of main yarn so that the stitches are easy to see and pick up.)</div><div style="text-align: left;"> 3. Change to main yarn, Knit one row at a loose tension then change to tension<b> 3 </b>, knit as many rows as you want for half the cuff. I did 14. Change to Tension <b>5</b> and knit 14 rows.</div><div style="text-align: left;">4. Remove the comb and weights. Hang the hem. Put some claw weights on again.</div><div style="text-align: left;">6. Set up the fairisle pattern. Knit 40 rows at Tension 7 and cut a 12" yarn tail.</div><div style="text-align: left;">7. Take the stitches off on this yarn tail. Cinch up the stitches. If you think the hole is too large, sew across a few times north- south and east- west. Then mattress stitch the seam.</div><div style="text-align: left;"> I didn't put any pom pom or bow on the top of these. I thought they looked fine as is.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Remove the waste yarn and you're done. Aren't they cute? Somehow little tiny knit things make you smile.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Notes: By drastically changing tension on the hem and also the main part of the hat you have a nice hem that lays flat, I don't reduce the number of stitches on the last row to save time. It looks ok to me. If you want, you could decrease the stitches across. Although I like wool yarn, acrylic seems a better choice for laundering and softness.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Here is the stitch pattern.It would work with a 24 st punch card as well,</div><div style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r0-jPmcvxrw/Xoj-ICU3osI/AAAAAAAADmE/z0Vz_SpzaVY68VKVE8fp2wm3rUm91gfNACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Untitled.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r0-jPmcvxrw/Xoj-ICU3osI/AAAAAAAADmE/z0Vz_SpzaVY68VKVE8fp2wm3rUm91gfNACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Untitled.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="185" data-original-width="186" height="198" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r0-jPmcvxrw/Xoj-ICU3osI/AAAAAAAADmE/z0Vz_SpzaVY68VKVE8fp2wm3rUm91gfNACLcBGAsYHQ/s200/Untitled.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><p></p>
<br />Marhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14554632020726020481noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5850210578270320256.post-71076611490881104232020-03-25T11:22:00.005-05:002020-09-10T14:31:48.522-05:00Are you a machine embroiderer?<h3 style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<p style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">
I always say, you could be embroidering for 100 years with free machine embroidery designs downloaded from the internet. Some freebies are better than others, of course. Can't stop collecting them. And I confess I purchase more than I probably should. It is an addictive hobby like collecting yarn. 😊<br /></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">
This is one of the cutest freebies. You can download it here:<br /></span></p><p></p><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://omlembroidery.com/product-category/ith-in-the-hoop-bookmarks/" style="font-weight: normal;">https://omlembroidery.com/product-category/ith-in-the-hoop-bookmarks/</a></div><span style="font-weight: normal;"><div style="text-align: left;">This husband and wife team also do Youtube videos teaching digitizing and giving instructions on how to stitch their projects.</div></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K9EPH6lGP44/XnuCxwEyVAI/AAAAAAAADkk/Y8zQn_Hyw5Yb_4PapdgAIfzlPJOH8GApwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/bunny%2B%2Bbookmark.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="490" data-original-width="502" height="312" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K9EPH6lGP44/XnuCxwEyVAI/AAAAAAAADkk/Y8zQn_Hyw5Yb_4PapdgAIfzlPJOH8GApwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/bunny%2B%2Bbookmark.jpg" width="320" /><br /></a></span><p></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K9EPH6lGP44/XnuCxwEyVAI/AAAAAAAADkk/Y8zQn_Hyw5Yb_4PapdgAIfzlPJOH8GApwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/bunny%2B%2Bbookmark.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;">I did this bookmark for my grandson. Putting together a bunch of little things for his Easter basket. Not in the directions, but I stuck in some stiffener (left over stabilizer) on both front and back between fabric layers to give it some body. This is the back side:</a></span></p><span style="font-weight: normal;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VHTp3aphqoM/XnuDKR_nz0I/AAAAAAAADks/V_EDYkOU14s1qTHVRcoVJN9jHsM8wxh3wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/bunny%2Bback.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="571" data-original-width="529" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VHTp3aphqoM/XnuDKR_nz0I/AAAAAAAADks/V_EDYkOU14s1qTHVRcoVJN9jHsM8wxh3wCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/bunny%2Bback.jpg" width="296" /></span><br /></a><p style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><span>My only complaint is that sometimes the satin stitching isn't wide enough and you have to get dangerously close to the stitches when you trim the fabric. But, should I complain about a free design? Probably not. If you have an embroidery machine, give this site a try. Gotta think of thing</span>s <span>to keep oneself busy inside these days!</span></p></span><p></p><p></p><p></p>
</h3>
Marhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14554632020726020481noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5850210578270320256.post-15220489704679357802020-03-15T15:01:00.000-05:002020-03-15T15:09:26.856-05:00Twisted Headbands for BabiesWith this self-imposed quarantine, I have been getting a lot of sewing and knitting done. I do wonder what people who have no hobbies are doing to keep themselves occupied. I confess I also have watched a ton of movies and Youtube tutorials.<br />
Since I am doing baby things for charity this year, I wanted to do some twisted headbands. Cute or what!<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GewLZY7C0Og/Xm6HHOpmeBI/AAAAAAAADjI/1shlNlE6a4UrxuftUB4OuJZLr_bYKYoRQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/rwist%2Bheadbands%2Bfor%2Bbabies.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1169" data-original-width="850" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GewLZY7C0Og/Xm6HHOpmeBI/AAAAAAAADjI/1shlNlE6a4UrxuftUB4OuJZLr_bYKYoRQCLcBGAsYHQ/s400/rwist%2Bheadbands%2Bfor%2Bbabies.jpg" width="290" /></a></div>
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These are all 1 x 1 rib on the standard gauge machine. I started small (30 st x 70 rows) and for the succeeding ones added a few stitches and rows each time. This is really skinny yarn, so I had to use T 4/3. The smallest is 9" in circumference and the largest is 12" in circumference. Probably premie to newborn. They are nice and stretchy.</div>
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(The scanner let in some light on the left side---no variation in color in real life.)</div>
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These go sooooooooo fast. I made these 4 in about an hour and then sewed the ends together while watching MONK. (Must have not been aware of the series when it first came out on tv.) I get a kick out of that actor. He does a great job. Wonder how many people can relate on some level. I think we all have our oddities.</div>
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Anyway, if you do some charity knitting, I recommend doing these twisted headbands. Very cute on babies.</div>
<br />Marhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14554632020726020481noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5850210578270320256.post-80162136946472058482020-02-25T16:33:00.000-06:002020-02-25T16:43:36.067-06:00Twisted HeadbandI don't think I look that great in headbands, but I just had to try this one. Check out Itmakesyousmile on Ravelry. She has good directions and some examples. I used my Brother 970 standard with ribber, but you could design your own==stockinette, tuck, fairisle, slip, etc. I just didn't want to bother with a seam up the back.<br />
Here's the skinny on the one I made:<br />
(I made the smaller one, but next will make the larger.)<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WCEfDJEcNAI/XlWfqRhY51I/AAAAAAAADh8/HagtcAiGQ14ykIsSOvxOGlGELXRE0b7QwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/twisted%2Bheadband.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="681" data-original-width="1272" height="342" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WCEfDJEcNAI/XlWfqRhY51I/AAAAAAAADh8/HagtcAiGQ14ykIsSOvxOGlGELXRE0b7QwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/twisted%2Bheadband.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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It knits up really fast and a little longer to twist and seam. But, not too bad. (That's a scan. Looks much nicer in person, of course.) If you have trouble with the twist, there are videos on Youtube.</div>
<br />Marhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14554632020726020481noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5850210578270320256.post-14693153336065626272020-02-01T13:12:00.001-06:002020-02-01T13:17:06.846-06:00Dog Peace<h3>
I guess I couldn't bear to throw away my "swatch" (my 200+ row failure from when I knit a scarf for a friend). I'm usually a thrower, but this was too large to toss. Had to come up with something, so Ollie is getting another sweater.<br />View from the top:</h3>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z6UgaWsut6M/XjXJc56ETKI/AAAAAAAADg0/s7V-sYJRHlErqZWTfjF2LEbK_JGHO-avQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/from%2Bthe%2Btop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1063" data-original-width="779" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z6UgaWsut6M/XjXJc56ETKI/AAAAAAAADg0/s7V-sYJRHlErqZWTfjF2LEbK_JGHO-avQCLcBGAsYHQ/s400/from%2Bthe%2Btop.jpg" width="292" /></a></div>
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<h3>
I tried to unravel back to a row I could work with but it was too frustrating. The dark color didn't help any. So I took it to my sewing machine and sewed two rows across, trying to stay on the same knitted row. I cut off some extra and almost got it perfect, but this is a dog garment, right??? I just picked up stitches below the sewing machine stitches and knit a fold over neckband. Then I knit an underpanel.<br />This is a view from the side.</h3>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Vscn67tu3jU/XjXLH4GyVjI/AAAAAAAADhA/QxdJvOZus8UYg_ibCU1Ki8XnLu7ZLWjigCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/from%2Bthe%2Bside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1015" data-original-width="1600" height="202" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Vscn67tu3jU/XjXLH4GyVjI/AAAAAAAADhA/QxdJvOZus8UYg_ibCU1Ki8XnLu7ZLWjigCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/from%2Bthe%2Bside.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<h3>
You can't really see it, but there are holes for his front legs.<br />The floats in this design are pretty long, so I used some iron-on interfacing. I wouldn't say I did such a great job cutting it, but it will be hidden on the inside. It's a dog garment, right???</h3>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F5nzXbfrrf8/XjXL8PLUHLI/AAAAAAAADhI/VENpssBEPRwsyd8CLGcwgJllKL4Mq9GHQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/with%2Biron%2Bon%2Binterfacing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="945" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F5nzXbfrrf8/XjXL8PLUHLI/AAAAAAAADhI/VENpssBEPRwsyd8CLGcwgJllKL4Mq9GHQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/with%2Biron%2Bon%2Binterfacing.jpg" width="189" /></a></div>
<h3>
At least now his claws won't catch on the floats.<br />I think I'm done making dog clothes for a good long while now. Especially since spring and warmer temps are right around the corner.</h3>
<h3>
A friend said his doggie friends are going to be jealous of all his new clothes. Made me chuckle!</h3>
<br />Marhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14554632020726020481noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5850210578270320256.post-6541361801820536752020-01-22T11:57:00.000-06:002020-01-22T12:31:58.331-06:00Peace from Dale of NorwayA few years ago I downloaded this gorgeous pattern, free from Dale of Norway.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QKNzsbghJjg/XiiUkXhZYpI/AAAAAAAADf8/c9gUWJ56Z1wOcQQNx32L0XjJZZEFH_9RgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/peace.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="524" data-original-width="468" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QKNzsbghJjg/XiiUkXhZYpI/AAAAAAAADf8/c9gUWJ56Z1wOcQQNx32L0XjJZZEFH_9RgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/peace.jpg" width="285" /></a></div>
I haven't yet knit the sweater, but I used the stitch designs to make a warm scarf. I wore it to a club meeting and one of the gals asked if I would make it for her dad. He's Norwegian American and proud of his heritage. So, since I already had the scarf pattern in DAK, it was pretty easy to knit. I confess I had a mishap about 200 rows in and had to start over. No problem, really. I didn't unravel the piece, which I now call my "swatch". I will try to turn it into a dog sweater for my daughter's little mutt.<br />
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Anyway, I am totally in love with this design. You too can get it here: <a href="https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/334-01-peace-jubileumsgenser">https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/334-01-peace-jubileumsgenser</a><br />
You will have to convert it to DAK or I will be willing to email you what I have. (It's a DAK file so you need the program.)<br />
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By request, I knit it with acrylic. Here are some pictures:<br />
This is the back which was originally the design up the sleeves.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iqO3G4pl-kA/XiiKT5ZGMQI/AAAAAAAADfY/VXY6ybxUti0HPLskDS9ilY9SfqZBU1YXwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/20200119_115136.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="787" data-original-width="1497" height="210" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iqO3G4pl-kA/XiiKT5ZGMQI/AAAAAAAADfY/VXY6ybxUti0HPLskDS9ilY9SfqZBU1YXwCLcBGAsYHQ/s400/20200119_115136.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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This is the front</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ev4KLHFrloA/XiiLgfNE92I/AAAAAAAADfk/ZDV7fJEfkQocjFI7tlnJFooeOqNWx-n3ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/20200119_115109.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="528" data-original-width="1352" height="155" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ev4KLHFrloA/XiiLgfNE92I/AAAAAAAADfk/ZDV7fJEfkQocjFI7tlnJFooeOqNWx-n3ACLcBGAsYHQ/s400/20200119_115109.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Because on our knitting machines one can't knit fairisle in the round, the scarf is knit flat then seamed up the back. Takes some time, but I don't mind watching a movie and hand stitching. Isn't the pattern yummy? Took me about 3 hrs to knit (mainly because I had to start over) and 2 hrs to sew up. Imagine how long it would take to knit by hand!</div>
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<br />Marhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14554632020726020481noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5850210578270320256.post-31549808431595706392020-01-17T14:03:00.000-06:002020-01-17T14:03:40.702-06:00Sweater Vest for Preemies<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TWM6GkwvaIc/XiIRauSYJCI/AAAAAAAADew/4_0s-MVQztAlhUhV5ge-tgbke9DX_5v_QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/vest.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="646" data-original-width="644" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TWM6GkwvaIc/XiIRauSYJCI/AAAAAAAADew/4_0s-MVQztAlhUhV5ge-tgbke9DX_5v_QCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/vest.jpg" width="319" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">I am in
search of a project for charity for 2020.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I like to do multiples of the same pattern to make life easy on
myself.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Last year it was hats, and I’m
over that for a while, even though they were super fast.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This little vest took me an hour to knit and
about a half hour to sew all together.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I’m hoping I get faster at it.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Came upon
this pattern on the Long Buckby Machine Knitters website a while ago and
thought it was such a good idea.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I do
want to give credit since this is such an innovative idea.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Seems useful.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The body warmer/vest is for low birth weight babies or those with lines
in their arms in the neonatal intensive care unit of the hospital.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Having no sleeves, the vest wouldn’t
interfere with the medical intervention.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Of course,
like most machine (and maybe hand) knitters, I had to change the pattern a bit.
Specifically, I decreased more stitches at the shoulders. Also I didn’t add
anything decorative to the body since I wanted this to be speedy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is my first draft of the revised pattern,
the one I used to knit the vest in the picture.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I am contemplating making the armholes shorter/smaller, but maybe is ok
the way it is since the baby would have a sleeper under it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Machine-
standard gauge<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Yarn-
basically any that works with your machine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Size isn’t so critical, it will turn out to be a mini size.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Although wool would be warm, acrylic is
probably the best choice for easy laundering.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Only takes a few ounces.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Gauge- At
tension 7, I got about 7 stitches and 9 rows to the inch on the stockinette, resulting in the vest
being about 6 inches wide after the bottom rib and about 6 inches long.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Notice I’m a tad vague here.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-char-type: symbol; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">J</span></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">You will also need 3 small
buttons and sewing thread<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">DIRECTIONS<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">This is knit
in one piece up to the armholes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">RC 000<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>1 x 1 <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Rib</b>
over 83 stitches, end stitches on the main bed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>After cast on change to T 2/2, knit 10 rows for the rib, <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>then transfer stitches to the main bed. Attach
main carriage. Increase one stitch to 84 stitches.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you don’t have a ribber, you could do mock
rib or a hung hem. Just a word about hung hems on such a small garment,
though.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Tried it, even drastically
changing the underside of the hem to be tighter---it tends to flip up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You are certainly welcome to try other hems,
though.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Body </span></b><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">knit to RC 36.<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> <o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Armhole and Shoulder <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></b><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">(Be sure to pass the carriage far enough to register the<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> </b>rows. )<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> </b>Put machine on hold.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Put
all stitches in hold except for the 17 stitches on the right end of the
machine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Very furthest stitches on the
right end up to be the center of the vest.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Use a full fashioned decrease.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On
RC 37 decrease one stitch on left and one stitch on the right.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Knit 2 rows.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>RC<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>39<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>decrease one stitch on left and one stitch on
the right.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Knit 2 rows.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Decrease one stitch on the right only now every
2 rows until you have 10 stitches left.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Knit to RC 64.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Take these
stitches off on several rows of waste yarn.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Other
armhole and shoulder:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Since your
stitches and machine are in hold you can scoot your carriage to the other side
of the bed with no dropping of stitches. Repeat what you did on the first
shoulder, reversing the shaping.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Take
these 10 stitches also off on several rows of waste yarn.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Back </span></b><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Turn the row counter back to 36.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Take the machine off hold.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Knit one row.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Bind off 8 stitches at the beginning of<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>each of the next 2 rows. Now you have 34 stitches for the back.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Knit plain
to RC 64. Put machine on hold, stitches to hold except for the far right 10
stitches.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Take these stitches off on
several rows of waste yarn.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Carriage to
the other side of the bed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Put 10
stitches in work and take these stitches off on several rows of waste yarn.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Bind off around
the gate pegs these back neck stitches with main yarn.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Join the shoulders<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></b><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">With the right (stockinette ) side facing you, fold back the
waste yarn of the shoulder so you can see the purl bumps.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Hang the 10 shoulder stitches, needles all the way out and stitches
pushed back.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fold garment so wrong side
is facing you, with the matching shoulder, hang the 10 shoulder stitches in the
hooks of the needles.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Close the latches
and with a straight edge push the stitches in the hooks through the back
stitches.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Use the latch tool to bind off
around the gate pegs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Repeat for the
other shoulder.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Button band </span></b><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Do a 1 x 1 rib over 9 needles (5 on
main bed and 4 on the ribber).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After the
cast on, change to T 2/2 RC 000 and knit 4 rows.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>(Super easy buttonhole) *Make a buttonhole by transferring the middle
stitch on the main bed to an adjacent stitch on the ribber.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Leave the main bed needle in work.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Knit 12 rows.* Repeat two more times for 3
buttonholes total.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(Row 4, 16, and
28)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Knit to RC 140. Do a loop through
loop bind off so the end looks sorta like the beginning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To do this, transfer the rib stitches to the
main bed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Knit the last row right to
left at T 6.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Pull the second stitch
through the first across the bed using the larch tool. Fasten off the last
loop.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">BTW,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I purchased a rib comb that accommodates 60 stitches and it’s ideal for
small ribs like this of only 9 stitches. Much lighter weight than the regular ribber comb. Well worth it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Otherwise you have to use a big clunky ribber
comb that came with your ribber, or devise some other method of holding down
the stitches.<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">If you are making this without a
ribber you could hang the front stitches all the way around.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Remember to add 3 button holes.<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Finishing </span></b><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Sorry there are so many ends to work
in.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Will see if I can minimize this.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Remove waste yarn at the shoulders. Find the
middle of the rib strip<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and the middle
of the back neck. Depending on which side you put the buttonholes, you can
indicate boy or girl, but this seems unimportant to me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Pin the
mid points together so the band sits evenly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Mattress stitch the rib to the vest.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Work in the yarn ends.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sew on 3 small buttons with sewing thread.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">I didn’t
steam this, but you could. It is recommended to wash without perfume in the
detergent or dryer sheets. Put in a sandwich bag to keep clean when donating. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Thanks to the Long Buckby machine knitters for inspiring me! Let me know if you give this a try and any modifications you did.</span></div>
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<br />Marhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14554632020726020481noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5850210578270320256.post-81091267006615465872020-01-10T13:45:00.000-06:002020-01-12T12:07:51.164-06:00Baby, it's cold outside. Need some footies??<br />
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Midgauge Slipper
Footies <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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</v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><!--[endif]--><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Knitting Notes and
tips: <o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">These are knit on the main bed only,
on any midgauge or bulky machine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Yes, I
hid the seam that goes up the side of the instep in the picture, but honestly
the seam is not bothersome.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I used two strands of Jaegerspun acrylic yarn
which was labeled 3/8.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Use any yarn
that achieves the tension indicated in the pattern.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It seems you have to do a bit of experimentation
to fit a specific person in which case you'd need to change the stitches and rows. If you are knitting these for charity, they will fit
someone.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One strand of navy and one of
black made the slipper appear to be knit from variegated yarn.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I strung them through their own eyelets and
joined them at the carriage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To prevent
a hole forming on the heel, take the purl bump of the adjacent stitch at the inside
of the end of short rowing and exchange it with the adjacent needle. Also try exchanging the stitches to see if you like the look of this better.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Because of the rolled hem, it is best to use
the stockinette side as the right side.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>If you don’t like the rolled hem, you could knit rib either by hand or knit
the cuff by latching up the stitches, then proceed with the pattern. Or, if you
have a machine with a ribber, have at it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Since these work up so fast, they’d be a good project for Operation
Toasty Toes or other charity that takes slippers. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you are knitting these with cotton, it’s
really important to swatch and wash since cotton is notorious for shrinking. Call me weird, but I like to knit a big rectangle, wash it and put it in the dryer, then rewind the yarn. That way it is preshrunk and the gauge is pretty much accurate.<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Machine</span></i></b><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><i>:</i><span style="font-style: italic;"> </span>Any midgauge; bulky would work
achieving the same gauge <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Yarn</span></b><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">: Any yarn to achieve the same tension if you want to follow the pattern. I used yarn that was slightly
thinner than sport and doubled it. Do a
swatch with your chosen yarn to get the same gauge. <i><o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Tension</span></b><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>at T 5, 4 st x 7 rows = 1” with yarn doubled <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Finished size of large</span></b><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"> = man’s shoe size 10-11<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sizes medium and (large).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If one number, it applies to both sizes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You’ll have to experiment if the first try
doesn’t fit. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Directions: <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">With waste
yarn, cast on over 46 (48) N, knit a few rows, one row ravel cord.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With main yarn ewrap on, leaving a 12” tail
for seaming.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Knit at T 3 for 12 R for
roll hem.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Change to T 5 Knit 8 rows (7
rows for second footie to end on left side of bed).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Note:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>if you want these to rise higher on the ankle, knit more rows here. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Heel – Set
carriage to hold position.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Pull all
needles left of zero to hold.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Short row
down to 8 working needles by pulling the working N closest to the carriage to
hold before each row. Reverse short row by putting the needle opposite the
carriage into working position, knit the row, until all N are in work again. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Remember to close up the hole before you begin
doing the reverse short rowing.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Put carriage
on N. All needles knit.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Foot-<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>RC 000.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Knit 42 (48) rows. (Use an odd number to end up at the left side for the
second footie’s heel.) <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Toe – Knit
exactly as you did the heel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(Another
option is to do ff decreases for the toe.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Some people like the look of this better.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Knit one row
overall with main yarn and then remove on several rows of waste yarn.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Fold the
waste yarn back and kitchener stitch the toe seam.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I find it is easier to graft from the purl
side.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Remove waste yarn.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Do a flat seam for the side. Hide yarn tails.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Knit the second footie putting the heel and
toe on the other side of the bed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<o:p></o:p><br />
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</v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><!--[endif]--><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Using the same basic design, you can
make <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u>women’s footies</u></b>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You’ll need to experiment to find out how
many stitches and rows to do.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My
stitches and rows for a size 6 shoe with<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Bernat Baby Boucle was 6 st and 8 rows to 1”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I cast on 42 stitches, did 10 rows for the
hem and did 38 rows for the foot.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’m
not even sure this yarn is made anymore so you will really have to calculate
your own with your chosen yarn!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">The
fluffiness of the boucle made it ideal to use the purl side as the right
side.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When you do this it totally hides
seams so that the slipper looks like it is knit in the round.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The only difference from the above pattern is
that, rather than making a rolled hem, this hem is hung from the first
row.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You would begin with waste yarn,
knit a few rows, then change to main yarn and knit the number of rows you want
for the depth of the hem x 2.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(Don’t do
a permanent cast on with the main yarn, just knit.) To make the hem, pick up
the first row and hang it on top of the stitches in work.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It naturally rolls to the outside.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On the picture you can see that the hem is
stockinette on the outside but the body of the footie is purl stitches. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Be sure to
write down your gauge, number of stitches to use, number of rows for the hem,
rows for the foot and anything else.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
have been known to knit merrily away and forgot to write down the vital info so
had to take a wild guess for slipper #2.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Sometimes successfully!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sometimes
not. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />Marhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14554632020726020481noreply@blogger.com1